Why go?

Majestic natural landscapes and romantic architecture come as standard in Sintra, which almost makes the rest of Portugal feel like an afterthought as it surveys the country from its hilltop perch, a 30-minute drive north of Lisbon. Its fairy-tale castles and palaces – plus a boom of gourmet restaurants and plush boltholes – are ripe for exploration. May offers easy days padding the pretty old town before the hordes of summer visitors descend, while the dramatic Sintra-Caicais Natural Park is in full bloom.

What to do

For centuries, Portuguese gentry were lured from the bustling capital to Sintra for its temperate microclimate. Trace its history and saunter through the arteries of the now Unesco-listed town, past sorbet-hued manors, pretty gardens and 19th-century palaces that roll into the green hills. Start at Quinta da Regaleira (entry £5. 30pp). The gothic estate is a transcendental dream of forest, ancient grottos, and Manueline structures that lead to a trippy subterranean Poço Iniciáticoin (Masonic Initiation Well). Climb the steep hill to Palacio da Pena, (entry £12. 50pp), the whimsical brainchild of King Ferdinand II. Its bright yellow, purple- tiled facade and terracotta towers are hard to miss. Entrance isn’t cheap, but it offers fascinating insight into the early 20th century and the grounds are awash with hidden lakes, shaded walks and glorious vistas. The recently refreshed Museu das Artes de Sintra showcases local works from 1900 to the modern day with some of the country’s most famous artists, such as Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro and António Carneiro, represented. The artisan boutiques and quirky shops that line the winding streets of the old town are the place to sniff out unusual azulejos (tiles) and handicrafts. The Sintra Bazar also does a fine line in homeware. And don’t miss the São Pedro de Sintra market (every other Sunday), where you can discover local specialities such as bacalhau (salt cod) and pastéis de nata (custard tarts).

Where to stay

Make like royalty and opt for Tivoli Palacio de Seteais minorhotels.com a one-time summer retreat set amid lush greenery. The 30-room property has been restored to its original 18th-century splendour with rich tapestries and frescoes by French painter Jean-Baptiste Pillement. For a more pastoral experience, pristine Penha Longa penhalonga.com is a sprawling resort which houses a 14th-century monastery, numerous pools and eight restaurants (including the Michelin-starred LAB by Sergi Arola). Boutique-style Lawrence’s Hotel lawrenceshotel.com is a great central option. It’s one of the oldest hotels of the Iberian Peninsula, with 16 rooms dating back to 1764. Lord Byron penned parts of his famous Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage here when he stayed in 1809.

Where to eat and drink

Seeing chef Pedro Almeida flame delicate tuna belly perfectly summarises a meal at Midori. It’s a genius concept of Japanese food with a Portuguese soul and is the country’s oldest Japanese restaurant, housed at hotel Penha Longa. Try the miso shiro de caldo verde – an Eastern take on the popular Portuguese soup of kale, garlic and potatoes. Taberna Criativa 00 351 21 018 6147 is a coveted local favourite: a 30-seat wine bar and bistro led by Vitor Rocha. Dishes of garlic and pepper steak, and carpaccio de bacalhau y out of the kitchen, but it’s Rocha’s tribute to the pastel de nata that really stands out. Café Saudade 00 351 21 242 8804 is set in the bakery that once furnished King Ferdinand II with queijadas (cakes made with soft cheese).Today, the charming spot is a great place to pop in to for a café con leche or light lunch. A little outside of Sintra, beachfront restaurant Azenhas do Mar azenhasdomar.com serves the freshest fish. Try lobster with shell fish risotto or cod à lagareiro (in olive oil) with a glass from nearby Regional de Colares Winery.

Time running out?

The Palacio de Monserrate, just outside of town, is far quieter than Sintra’s other attractions. Jump on the number 435 bus from the station and avoid the weekend crowd.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Time is the same as GMT. Flight time from London is around two and a half hours. The train to Sintra takes 30 minutes (£1. 90pp); a shuttle bus takes under an hour (£2pp).

Getting There

easyJet flies to Lisbon from Luton and Gatwick. easyjet.com

TAP Air Portugal offers flights from London Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester to Lisbon Portela airport.

Resources

Visit Portugal is the official tourist board. The website has bundles of information to help you plan a visit. visitportugal.com