Why go?

Close to the colossal Caucasus mountains, Tbilisi is a melting pot bubbling with European-, Soviet- and Oriental-style architecture; a little dishevelled but all the more romantic for it. Famed for its hospitality – there’s a well-known Georgian saying that lauds the guest as ‘a gift from God’ – your glass will never be empty as endless toasts keep the chacha (Georgian pomace brandy) flowing in this vivacious, diverse, beautiful city. August and September have superb weather and many events that celebrate the capital’s rising-star status among Europe’s best city breaks.

What to do

Begin by taking the cable car to the top of the 4th-century Narikala Fortress overlooking the city and distant mountains. Here, you’ll be up close to Kartlis Deda (Mother Georgia), a 20m-tall aluminium statue that greets friends with her goblet of wine and enemies with her sword. On the descent, stroll through the ramshackle houses that cascade down the hill. With tilting and spiral staircases, wrought-iron and wooden balconies and colourful pastel shades, you’ll find yourself gawking at every corner. At the bottom, get a scrubbing in the sulphur baths, unmistakeable by their steaming domed roofs (our pick is the Royal Bath 00 995 322 72 10 66). Nearby, in the Sioni Cathedral, murals and iconography in gold and blue combine to create one of the best examples of a sumptuous Orthodox interior. A progressive, artsy air has been pervading the city and it wouldn’t be Tbilisi without its numerous art cafés. Get a feel for it in the vegetarian Café Leila 00 995 555 94 94 20 (excellent home-made purple basil lemonade) or the bohemian Café Linville 00 995 322 93 36 51. It’s possible to pick up good street food all over the city but in Khurjini 00 995 555 55 47 30 you’ll find hundreds of jars labelled with Georgian script. They’re perfect for gifts – think syrupy walnuts, apples and damsons. Don’t forget to pick up some spices and churchkhela; you’ll spot these grape juice-dipped strings of nuts – usually walnuts – hanging all over the city. On the other side of town, the wide boulevard of Rustaveli is home to the Georgian National Museum museum.ge is a must see. Heading down to the river, you’ll pass the flower market and make it to the Dry Bridge Market. Haggle over trinkets and vinyl while the friendly Georgians indulge in the heart-stopping, doughy khachapuri (cheese-filled bread).

Where to stay

Housed in an old publishing house, Rooms Hotel 00 995 322 02 00 99, roomshotels.com is industrial chic at its best. Culture dominates in this cool setting: velvet sofas, Bauhaus-style chairs, exposed girders and modern art are a few of its best bits. If you’d prefer to be closer to the cobbles of Old Tbilisi, then Betsy’s Hotel 00 995 322 93 14 04, betsyshotel.com with its crimson carpets and traditional paintings, is more for you. Plants galore and marbled furnishings make Villa Mtiebi 00 995 322 92 03 40, hotelmtiebi.ge another old town option.

Where to eat and drink

Set in the garden of the grand Writers’ House, it’s difficult to think of a calmer setting in which to while away a Tbilisi evening than in Café Littera 00 995 599 98 83 08. Its food and wine are some of the best in the city: king prawns and polenta are used to update the classic kharcho, a creamy walnut sauce, creating a wonderfully rich dish uplifted by the sweet sharpness of artichoke. For more traditional Georgian fare, head across the river to In the Shadow of Metekhi mgroup.ge where arguably the best city panorama can be seen from its terrace above the Mtkvari River. If the view fails to entertain, the restaurant also hosts local musicians and dancers, satisfying all the senses as you tuck into fried chicken in blackberry sauce. For something more intimate, head to Barbarestan 00 995 322 94 37 79 where hanging lamps and patterned tablecloths will make you feel as though you’re dining in a local’s home. For all things healthy, stripped-back Organique Josper Bar restorganique.com is a hit.

Time running out?

A few hours to spare? Lose yourself in the calm Botanical Gardens along the Tsavkisistskali Gorge. bgci.org

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Georgian lari (GEL). Tbilisi is 4 hours ahead of GMT. Flight time from London is just under 5 hours. The cost to carbon offset is £8.85. For more details visit climatecare.org

Getting There

Georgian Airways flies direct from London Gatwick to Tbilisi International Airport five times a week. georgianairways.com

Aegean Airlines flies with a stop in Athens. aegeanair.com

Resources

Georgia is the official website of the Georgian National Tourism Administration, which is packed with useful tips. gnta.ge