Why go?

In stark contrast to Jerusalem’s strait-laced traditionalism, Tel Aviv is a laid-back haven for those who like to revel in modern life’s pleasures. Good food, the arts, and lively coffee-house debate has been flourishing here since 1902, when the city was first settled by Jews and Arabs of Eastern European, Russian and American descent. April is guaranteed to be warm and sun-soaked – perfect for touring the White City’s iconic Bauhaus architecture, or bartering for narghile pipes and antique brassware in Jaffa’s flea markets. Passover is also celebrated during this month, and visitors are welcome to join in at many of the various celebrations that are held around the city.

What to do

Quirky streets and diverse neighbourhoods define this buzzing city. T he centre is dominated by Rabin Square, which provides first-rate people-watching and is the site of the city’s festivals and rallies. Pop into the Rubin Gallery (rubinmuseum.org.il), which houses an acclaimed collection of Israeli artist Reuven Rubin’s works, or visit the Tel Aviv Museum of Art (tamuseum.com) to be wowed by its impressive permanent collection of 19th and 20th-century pieces. The UNESCO-protected White City, especially Rothschild Boulevard, is an area of over 4,000 light-coloured Bauhaus buildings constructed from the 1930s; this is surely the city’s architectural highlight and is not to be missed. Neve Tzedek is the oldest neighbourhood, and has been recently restored into one of the swankiest – graceful tree-lined streets are home to refurbished mansions, trendy cafés and wine bars. For some banter with the locals, hit Nahalat Street in the Yemenite Quarter on Tuesdays and Fridays to discover intricate antique jewellery and judaica (Jewish memorabilia). Stroll along Shenkin Street, where the young and beautiful browse in designer boutiques and lunch on mezze at minimalist cafés. The Ramat Aviv and Tel Aviv University area is home to modern sculpture gardens and the acclaimed Museum of the Jewish People (bh.org.il), an exhibition of Jewish artefacts. O n the southern edge of Tel Aviv is Jaffa, a 4,000-year-old port city steeped in history. Wander through the alleyways, mingle with artists and sculptors, haggle for woodworks in the antiques market, and walk along the Tayelet, the beach promenade, for a dose of breezy Mediterranean air. Days here are best spent sipping grapefruit juice and nibbling on home-grown dates, figs, almonds or persimmons while lounging on the sands of Gordon Beach.

Where to stay

Boutique Neve Tzedek Hotel (00 972 5420 70706, nevetzedekhotel.com), as its name suggests, is located in the center of Neve Tzedek. Rooms are uniquely furnished with a mix of restored flea-market finds and bold contemporary pieces. If it’s sea views you’re after, book into Alexander Suites (00 972 3545 2222, alexander.co.il) – the spacious, well-equipped apartments ooze style. Cinema Hotel (atlas.co.il, 00 972 3542 5555) is a renovated version of a 1930s cinema. Boasting a Bauhaus exterior and sleek rooms, it is located in the heart of the city; they serve popcorn and play old movies in the lobby.

Where to eat and drink

Pay a visit to Dr Shaksuka (00 972 5794 44193, doctorshashuka.co), a café in a former Ottoman warehouse, for a North African breakfast of poached eggs, bell peppers and spicy tomato sauce, washed down with freshly squeezed Jaffa orange juice. Opt for lunch at Orna and Ella (00 972 3620 4753), a hip café on Shenkin Street serving homemade food – the sweet potato cakes are the prize order. Dig into a fresh seafood feast on the beach at Manta Ray (00 972 3517 4773, mantaray.co.il); they also do excellent mezze. Fine Israeli produce is put to good work in imaginative, modern cuisine at Herbert Samuel (00 972 3516 6516, herbertsamuel.co.il).

Time running out?

Get to the Yafa Café and Bookshop (00 972 3681 5746, yafabook.co.il), which promotes peace between Arabs and Jews, for some last-minute literary mementos.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the New Israeli Shekel (NIS). Tel Aviv is two hours ahead of GMT. Direct flights to the city take 4 hours, 50 minutes.

Getting There

British Airways (0844 493 0787, ba.com) has direct daily flights from Heathrow to Tel Aviv.
Easyjet (easyjet.com) operates flights to Tel Aviv from London Luton.

Resources

Israel Ministry of Tourism (020 7299 1100, thinkisrael.com) provides practical information about the city and detailed resources on where to stay.