Why go?

Because life is rosy in Toulouse. Known as ‘La ville rose’, this city is constructed from countless pink bricks that glow in this sunny corner of south-west France. Surrounded on all sides by water, the city’s cobbled streets weave their way down to the river Garonne where locals sun themselves in summer, further out the Canal du Midi snakes around the town. The country’s fourth largest city, Toulouse has the sense of an overgrown village; students tumble out of coffee shops and locals cheer on the rugby team; sausages sizzle on street corners, and you’l find the best cassoulet and foie gras served in every café.

What to do

For a snapshot of local life, head to the markets. Open daily from 6am-1pm, Marche Victor Hugo (marchevictorhugo.fr) is 119 years old and famous for its gourmet offerings: try Maison Garcia sausages, cheeses by Xavier and Betty, and Gimm confectionery. Nearby is the smaller but equally tasty Le Marché des Carmes, an unprepossessing concrete spiral that nevertheless offers a fantastic view over Toulouse’s rooftops. Sit out on the terrace at Bar du Matin (lematin.ch) to watch the hustle and bustle. For a cultural fix Basilique Saint-Sernin, the largest surviving Romanesque church in the world, deserves a visit. Built during the 11th and 12th centuries, it was an essential stopping point on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. Inside lies the tomb of St Saturnin (or Sernin), whose act of artyrdom was to be tied to a bull and dragged through the streets. From here, stroll to Place du Capitole – the heart of the city. The square is dominated by the city hall; inside, the grand rooms display paintings by Toulouse-born artist Henri Martin. The boulevards that snake out from the square are worth exploring. Wander towards the river, stopping at Hôtel d’Assézat – it’s one of the earliest examples of French Classicism and has a beautiful inner courtyard. It is home to the Fondation Bemberg (fondationbemberg.fr), a museum that displays art by the the likes of Monet, Matisse and Pisarro. Nearby, the 18th-century Notre-Dame de la Daurade houses a famous statue of a Black Virgin. Walk over the Pont Neuf, pausing to enjoy the view, on the way to modern art gallery Les Abattoirs (lesabattoirs.org). Explore Toulouse’s fascination with all things aeronautical at the Airbus factory (00 33 5 61 21 70 01), which also houses vintage flying machines. Book one of the Saturday morning tours.

Where to stay

It’s not just the food and the company that makes this B&B so special, the four light and spacious bedrooms are beautifully decorated, with gorgeous views. For opulence, Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra (00 33 5 61 21 82 66, grandhotelopera.com) is Toulouse’s finest address. Sumptuous rooms overlook the Place du Capitole. For a riverside setting, try the charming 18th-century Hôtel des Beaux Arts (00 33 5 34 45 42 42, hoteldesbeauxarts.com) by the Garonne.

Where to eat and drink

There’s some pretty good food in this neck of the woods; for regional cuisine with a meaty focus, Chez Carmen (00 33 5 61 42 04 95) offers nose-to-tail eating. Chef Pierre Lambinon, who trained under Paul Ducasse, is causing a stir at Le Py-r (00 33 5 61 25 51 52, pyr.com) – his tasting menu transforms ingredients such as foie gras, succulent scallops and pigeon into an art form. For a taste of the region’s famous cassoulet you won’t get better than that made by chef Romain Brard at Le Genty Magre (00 33 5 61 21 38 60, legentymagre.com), but leave room for dessert – his waffles are legendary.

Time running out?

Hire a bike (there are cycle points throughout the city) and explore the banks of the Garonne; at the weekend they are lined with food, art and craft stalls.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Toulouse is one hour ahead of GMT, and an eight-hour train journey or two-hour flight from London.

Getting There

Railbookers (railbookers.com) can organise train travel and packages from London to Toulouse.
British Airways (ba.com) flies frequently from London to Toulouse.

Resources

Office de Tourisme Toulouse (00 33 5 40 13 15 31 toulousevisit.com) offers friendly, helpful advice for planning your trip.