Why go?

Troyes has that certain je ne sais quoi. It might stem from the movie-set-perfect architecture – rainbows of colourful half-timbered houses and radiant stained glass windows – or the unflinchingly Gallic cuisine, or the whispers of medieval intrigue (the city was the birthplace of the Order of the Knights Templar in 1129). But the abundant charm of this regional capital is most likely down to the copious amounts of one, effervescent thing – champagne. Gateway to the sub-region of Côte des Bars, Troyes is awash in the stuff: fittingly, the historic centre is even shaped like a bubbly cork.

What to do

Just walking around Troyes is a pleasure, thanks to the profusion of 16th-century half-timbered houses, of which the Hôtel de Lion Noir on Rue Emile-Zola is one of the oldest, and most impressive. Many other restored examples contain boutique shops, galleries, bakeries and wine bars. And museums: the Museum of Craft Tools sounds a bit of a snore, but is actually a very well-executed, thoughtful display. Then, housed in the former Episcopal Palace – site of the 1129 Council of Troyes – is the Museum of Modern Art. Meanwhile, the Apothecary of Hôtel-Dieule- Comte provides a glimpse into 18th-century pharmaceutical practice. Thirty minutes’ drive outside the city is the Orient Forest National Park, containing three large lakes and outdoor activities galore, from water sports to Segway tours. Touring the champagne houses and vineyards is a major part of the appeal here and, unlike in the production areas around Epernay to the north, the region is mostly populated with small grower- intners, so the experience feels more personal. Bring along an empty suitcase – by the time you’ve visited the excellent Chassenay d’Arce (chassenay.fr), Drappier (champagnedrappier.com) and Clerambault (champagneclerambault.fr) you’ll probably be hauling the better part of a dozen bottles around. That’s before you even get to Rémi Massin (champagnemassin.com), where you’ll taste from the winemaker’s splendid hand-painted bottles in his own cosy living room, over a platter of warm gougères. Resistance is futile.

Where to stay

It’s full-on French romance at Le Champ des Oiseaux (00 31 3 25 80 58 50, champdesoiseaux.com), a 15thcentury timbered hotel and garden near the cathedral. Incredibly pretty, tranquil and with a decent restaurant, it’s the nicest hotel in town. Hôtel Comtes de Champagne (00 33 325 73 11 70, comtesdechampagne.com) isn’t quite as polished, but charms with its medieval theme and prime location in the shopping district.

Where to eat and drink

Aux Crieurs de Vin (00 31 3 25 40 01 01, auxcrieursdevin.com) is both boutique wine shop and restaurant. Nibble on local sausages and cheeses, washed down with glasses of Rosé des Riceys, a champenois still wine. Or try a larger dish – Crieurs de Vin boasts one of the city’s most pungent examples of andouillette, the (in)famous local sausage made of pig’s intestine and stomach (Troyes is the birthplace of the dish, and as such, the local variant can be incredibly strong – don’t say we didn’t warn you). Near the main square, the 19th-century market, Les Halles de Troyes, boasts all the trappings for a picnic, from creamy Chaource cheese to duck confit; and the chocolatier, Pascal Caffet (maisoncaffet.com), is a world champion. Around the corner, on Rue Emile-Zola, Boulangerie Gérard has an almost permanently long queue, with locals snatching up its pastries and breads each morning. While away the evening at Au Coeur du Bouchon (00 33 3 10 95 20 06, aucoeurdubouchon.com); this stylish restaurant-cum-lounge offers sushi, nibbles and plenty of local grower champagnes. It’s great value – flights of three are about £10 a pop – and you can also buy bottles to take home.

Time running out?

Spend an afternoon in the pretty, honeyed village of Essoyes, the summer home of painter Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Pop into the Renoir museum, tour his former workshop, see his muse’s home and even visit his grave (renoiressoyes.fr).

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. France is one hour ahead of GMT, and Troyes is a five-hour train ride from London, via Paris.

Getting There

Rail Europe (raileurope.co.uk) arranges Eurostar tickets to London, and onward train travel to Troyes. P&O Ferries (poferries.com) operate ferries from Dover to Calais, which is a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Troyes.

Resources

Aube Tourism (aubechampagne.com) can arrange vineyard visits, walking tours and trips to the Orient Forest National Park. Troyes Tourism (tourismetroyes.com) offers sightseeing tips.