Why go?

With a heritage stretching back 2,600 years, Marseille is France’s oldest city, with its roots in the Vieux Port. This was the arrival point for the Greeks in 600BC and founding the city here was a calculated move – the three surrounding hills (Saint-Laurent, les Moulins and les Carmes) provided protection, and the islands of the Frioul archipelago doubled as a natural defence barrier. Later, additional protection came from two forts that stand proud either side of the port - Fort Saint-Jean and Fort Saint-Nicolas, built on the orders of Louis XIV.

In many ways, the Vieux Port shaped the city. It was a trading centre, and entrepreneurial locals grew fields of hemp nearby to provide seafarers with the rope they needed. Between the 15th and 17th centuries, the shipyard produced enormous galleons, but by the mid-19th century, the Vieux Port was deemed too small. New docks were constructed at nearby La Joliette and the Vieux Port became a leisure destination – albeit one with plenty of reminders of its past.

What to do

Marseille’s Vieux Port is the symbol of the city, the spot where the ancient Greek colony known as Massalia was founded in 600BC. But today, it’s not just a fantastic neighbourhood for a history fix – this area of Marseille is known for its food (it’s a great place to try the city’s legendary seafood soup, bouillabaisse), luxury hotels and great bars, including several perched on the water’s edge. You don’t have to splash the cash to enjoy it, either – grab a table at one of the Vieux Port’s cafés and opt for some people-watching, stroll along its ancient promenades while soaking up the views over the Mediterranean or learn about its history from the interactive exhibits at Marseille History Museum. Don’t forget to check out the museum’s gardens, which are dotted with the remains of an ancient Greek settlement discovered here in 1967.

The port is also the departure point for ferries heading to several nearby islands, including Île d’If, whose biggest structure is the Château d’If fortress, where the Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned in Dumas’ novel. Île d’If forms part of the Frioul archipelago, and it takes just 25 minutes to reach the tiny islands.

One of the Vieux Port’s most historic sites is the Église Saint-Ferréol les Augustins, at the eastern end. This Catholic church, which was consecrated in 1542 and is famous for its neo-baroque facade. Head inside to admire its spectacular marble altar and paintings by 17th-century Provençal painter Michel Serre.

Where to stay

Check into the five-star Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port for spectacular views over the water. The slick spa is a great spot to relax after a day pounding Marseille’s ancient promenades. You’ll be in good company – previous guests include Mick Jagger. all.accor.com

Travellers on a budget will love the Radisson Blu Hotel Marseille Vieux Port – it has an outdoor pool and a restaurant terrace overlooking the port. A private boulodrome hidden in a tree-shaded patio is an added bonus - a great spot to enjoy a game over a chilled glass of rosé. radissonhotels.com

Hôtel Carré Vieux Port is a family-owned waterfront hotel that scores highly in the sustainability stakes and has Clef Verte (Green Key) accreditation. Rooms are airy and modern and the hotel is filled with art. hotel-carre-vieux-port.com

Where to eat and drink

La Caravelle is a hotel and restaurant with a gorgeous bar on the first floor – head here to sip Provençal wines on the outdoor terrace. lacaravelle-marseille.com.

Bag a table by the window for waterside views at Une Table Au Sud, where Ludovic Turac, who’s honed his craft at some of France’s best restaurants, serves up delicious local plates – try the four-course ‘Les Essentiels Marseille’ menu. unetableausud.com

It’s all about seafood at both Le Bouchon Provençal (we recommend the seabream served with butternut gratin and coconut milk) and Le Miramar, a good place to try the city’s famous bouillabaisse. lebouchonprovencal.com lemiramar.fr

Rustic Cafés Debout isn’t quite as old as Marseille – it was founded in 1932 – but locals flock here to sip coffees from around the world and nibble its navettes (cookies flavoured with orange-flower water). 00 33 4 9133 0012

Another good place for a caffeine fix is Deep, on a side street just off the Vieux Port. Don’t be afraid to try some of the more unusual blends, such as the East African Lucy-Motherland, which has notes of chocolate and honey.

Love oysters? It’s got to be Café de l’Abbaye. This cosy waterside café is a brilliant place to watch the sun set over the Vieux Port while you tuck into freshly shucked oysters and pastis. 00 33 4 9166 8757

This article was taken from the May 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

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