Why go?

Take Gallic gastronomy, Francophone citizens and cobbled squares, stir in North American vistas and Revolutionary War battlegrounds, and what do you get? The alluring fusion that is Vieux-Québec. The old quarter is crowned by the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, its turreted silhouette iconic enough to appear in Canadian passports. Narrow lanes unfurl down bracingly steep hillsides – thankfully, there’s a funicular – towards wharfs and docks.

In this World Heritage Site, cathedral, convents and fortifications rub shoulders with wine bars, épiceries (gourmet food stores) and art galleries.

Signature dish poutine slathers chips in curd cheese and gravy while tourtière (meat pie) and fèves au lard (bean-bacon stew) help to offset the Canadian winter chill, but this is a city for all seasons. Come spring, sugar shacks boil maple tree sap to pour on lingering heaps of snow and form thick, chewy taffy. By summer, Vieux-Québec’s hilltop Battlefields Park is alive with sports and open-air concerts, reaching a crescendo with July’s Festival d’Été de Québec.

What to do

THE HISTORY

The city’s 400-year-old story isn’t always as sweet as its famous maple candies; canon-lined bastions, barracks and defensive gates speak to decades of clashes between colonial forces. Samuel de Champlain made land in 1608 and built Québec
to be the capital of New France. But the British were soon vying for dominance of this important east coast trading post, coming to a head in 1759, when General Wolfe’s troops defeated the garrison of Marquis de Montcalm. The French unsuccessfully tried to reconquer the city one year later, followed by a failed attack by American Revolutionary forces in 1775.

Where to stay

Occupying a peaceful side- street in Québec’s Old Port, the fire-lit lobby-bar, sumptuous suites (some featuring roof terraces) and Finnish sauna belie Auberge Saint-Antoine’s former function as a canon battery. Look closer, however, and you’ll spot displays of colonial-era artefacts unearthed during the building’s restoration. Part of Relais & Châteaux’s prestigious hotel portfolio, this family-run hotel also leads the way in sustainable gastronomy. Organic produce from the hotel’s nearby island- farm forms some 70 per cent of Chez Muffy’s menu, right down to syrup from its own maple groves. saint-antoine.com

Another property taking on a new lease of life is convent- hospital Le Monastère des Augustines, which now offers soul-soothing city breaks in its 17th-century cloisters. Airy, whitewashed rooms are simply yet stylishly kitted out with patchwork quilts and fluffy robes. Leaning into the wellness theme, mindful silence is encouraged during mealtimes, while massage treatments, yoga classes and guided garden walks are all on offer. An on-site museum pays tribute to the trailblazing nurse-nuns who settled here and, continuing the philanthropic bent, subsidised stays are offered for carers.
‘Get thee to a nunnery’ has never been such an appealing prospect. monastere.ca

This article was taken from the June/July 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

Where to eat and drink

lechicshack.ca

It’s a tale of regional tradition and local ingredients in these parts. A day might start with the aroma of freshly roasted coffee at esteemed coffee roastery Brûlerie de Café de Québec or perhaps Paillard, a boulangerie cherished by locals for its pastries, artisan bread and gourmet sandwiches – both in rue Saint-Jean.

Come evening, step back in time to sample classic French cuisine at Québec’s oldest gourmet restaurant, Restaurant Le Continental, while over at Restaurant Légende contemporary ambience sets the scene for innovative tasting menus – see venison tartare and seared foie gras – and expertly curated wine pairings. restaurantlecontinental.com restaurantlegende.com

Farm-to-table fare is best sampled at Bistro Hortus, which turns seasonal foods into creative dishes bursting with flavour. Or try seasonal Nordic flavours at Chez Boulay Bistro Boréal, where locally sourced ingredients take centre stage. hortus.ca chezboulay.com

Tucked away in a rustic 18th-century stone house, much loved Le Lapin Sauté delivers an innovative take on classic rabbit dishes like rabbit poutine and braised rabbit leg, all to be enjoyed in a picturesque courtyard setting. lapinsaute.com

Le Chic Shack, is the place for quintessential Québecois comfort food – it’s renowned for its mouthwatering poutines – while charming sugar shack La Petite Cabane à Sucre de Québec showcases the sweet side of the region's culinary heritage: maple syrup flows freely and traditional delicacies abound. And at La Buche, every dish pays homage to the region’s food ways, from tourtière to maple-infused desserts. lechicshack.ca restolabuche.com restolabuche.com

For a sophisticated selection of wines and artisanal cheeses – and

panoramic views of the cityscape – take a seat at Le Chateau

Frontenac’s 1608 Bar. fairmont. com/frontenac-quebec

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Travel Information

Getting There

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