Why go?

A quick train hop from Waterloo, the ancient Hampshire city has bags of charm and offers a peaceful escape from the chaos of other UK cities. A historical and cultural treasure trove, this place was home to Keats, whose prose waxed lyrical of the changing seasons inspired by his walks by the River Itchen and the Hampshire countryside. Lately big name Brit chefs have moved in.

What to do

Getting into to the heart of this medieval city is best done on foot so that you can lose yourself in the cobbled laneways that lead off from the main shopping street. Here you will find quirky boutiques and independent galleries. All roads lead to the cathedral, whose gardens make for a visit alone; 1,000 years of history are held in its walls (the longest in Europe), as well as a collection of impressive 12th-century wall paintings, winchester- cathedral.org.uk. Its gardens are verdant and peaceful, no doubt inspiring Jane Austen, who wrote Sense and Sensibility in this city and was later laid to rest here. Winchester’s royal heritage stretches over centuries, way back to the legend of King Arthur and his knights, whose story lives on at the top of the hill, where you can see the actual round table in The Great Hall, hants.gov.uk/greathall. It’s only a short drive out of town to find a fascinating gin discovery at the newly-opened Bombay Sapphire Gin Distillery at Laverstoke Mill, where behind-the-scenes experiences and tasting sessions involve smelling the dried ingredients like lavender and juniper berries, before breathing in vapour pots of sweetly scented botanicals, grown in the balmy climes of the distillery’s flashy new hot house in order to work out your ‘aroma profile’. A tailor-made gin cocktail is then put together to suit your particular taste at the end of the tour. www.bombaysapphire.com.

Where to stay

In his first locale outside Cornwall, Rick Stein has chosen a plush town house in downtown Winchester to spread his Seafood Restaurant story in a sophisticated new bistro with huge art pieces of seaside settings in a subtle nod to his coastal roots. Take a friend to share the parsley butter- topped whole Dover sole, 01841 532700. rickstein.com.

Chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has also ventured into the city with his just-opened River Cottage Canteen located in the converted grade II-listed Abbey Mill building by the river. Whitewashed walls, stone slab floors and wooden beams set the scene for healthy seasonal meals like the colourful shared veggie board, crab pâté, and pan-fried local perch on a bed of celeriac mash, dotted with drizzles of watercress salsa verde.

The crackling Swallow Field Farm wild boar belly teamed with roasted heritage beets, carrots and plums is a must. rivercottage.net. Michelin-starred The Black Rat, 01962 844465. theblackrat.co.uk, was converted from a pub into a quaint, quirky restaurant situated on the fringe of the town centre along Chesil Street serving modern British cuisine. Venture down Water Lane to sample seriously good wine available by the glass at sister bar The Black Bottle. theblackbottle.co.uk.

Where to eat and drink

Located slap bang in the shopping district is Hotel du Vin, 0844 748 9267. www.hotelduvin.com, housed in an elegant 18th-century Georgian building (1715). It offers a cosy escape. Recently refitted bedrooms have fine Egyptian linen, deep baths and powerful drench showers. Hearty breakfasts don’t stint on the smoked salmon that comes with a mound of creamy scrambled eggs. Stay for very decent dinners, which come in form of roast cod with lentils du puy and moules frites – note the French theme. Of course the wine list is a veritable tome as the name of the hotel suggests.

New in town is the little sister of the Black Rat and The Black Bottle, a stylish hotel to complete their trio, 10-room hideaway The Black Hole. theblackholebb.co.uk. A short way out of the city is the stately Lainston House, found in leafy grounds and the perfect place to curl up with a book by its roaring fire, 01962 776088. lainstonhouse.com.

Time running out?

A walk up to the top of St Giles Hill, where there’s a tranquil spot to enjoy sunset with superb views of the city.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Getting There

By car Winchester is located just off Junctions 9, 10 and 11 of the M3, or access via the A34 from Newbury and Oxford.

By rail Winchester is only an hour direct from London Waterloo and is also on direct routes from Southampton, Portsmouth, Bournemouth, Weymouth, Birmingham and the north of England.

Resources

Visit Winchester is the official website of Winchester City Council and will help you plan your trip. www.visitwinchester.co.uk.