Yokohama - Japan
This cosmopolitan city offers a feast for the senses, from fragrant gardens to sunny seaside esplanades and abundant street food. Lucy Kehoe readies her chopsticks
Travel Time 12hrs 30minThis cosmopolitan city offers a feast for the senses, from fragrant gardens to sunny seaside esplanades and abundant street food. Lucy Kehoe readies her chopsticks
Travel Time 12hrs 30minYokohama sits south of Japan’s sprawling capital, overlooking Tokyo Bay. It boasts a distinctive character thanks to a history of trade that dates to the 19th century, when it became the country’s first port to accept foreign ships. East meets West here: in the Yamate district you’ll find elegant European-style merchant’s houses and old consulates tickling the Cantonese dim-sum kiosks of Chinatown, and American-style jazz lounges in the nocturnal Noge area. As the city gets set to host the Rugby World Cup Final in September, beat the fans with a trip now, when humid highs of 29C are tempered by cooling ocean breezes.
Get your bearings on the 69th floor of the Yokohama Landmark Tower in Minato Marari. Panoramic views across the futuristic harbourside are bolstered by the chance to spot Mount Fuji in the distance on a clear day. Back on terra firma, explore the glitzy waterfront shopping centre before diving into Yokohama Museum of Art yokohama.art.museum to discover the local culture. After, pop by the red-brick customs houses of Akarenga Soko yokohama-akarenga.jp to pick up Yokohama Yaki pottery and crafts by local artisans. Be sure to look out for the colourful gates that mark the entrance to the city’s Chōkagai as you amble. The largest Chinatown in Asia, its rabbit-warren streets, which branch out from the gaudy Kanteibyo temple, are filled with the steamy scent of Chino-Japanese and dumpling stalls. Catch your breath in Yamate with a stroll through Harbour View Park. Nearby, the Yamate Museum yamate-jyubankan.yokohama is the only remaining wooden building to have survived the 1923 Great Kanto earthquake. For a novel, surprisingly informative afternoon, try the Shin-Yokohama Raumen Museum raumen.co.jp to learn the history of the iconic noodle dish. Its replica of a 1950s Tokyo street is a must-see, with ramen stalls serving regional specialities such as Rishiri Ramen Miraku, from the remote island of Rishiri.
A short walk from the waterfront, the wonderful Prostyle Ryokan Yokohama Bashamichi 00 81 45 662 2222, prostyleryokan.com blends the tradition of a Japanese inn (ryokan) with moody interiors. Rooms are decked out with tatami mats, loungewear and delicacies from acclaimed Yokohama confectioner Gâteau de Voyage. For old-school glamour, the historic Hotel New Grand 00 81 45 681 1841, hotel-newgrand.co.jp boasts a marble lobby, art deco accents and a guestbook signed by such luminaries as Charlie Chaplin. Order a ‘Naporitan’ at the hotel’s Italian restaurant to try a Japanese twist on the classic Neapolitan pasta dish. Tucked beside the Ōoka River, Hotel Edit Yokohama 00 81 45 680 0238 hotel-edit.com offers functional white-walled rooms with minimalist interiors, and is just around the corner from 29BY, one of the top craft beer and yakitori bars.
Chinatown offers some of the city’s finest street food. Track down 120-year-old Edosei 00 81 45 633 3290 to try butaman (steamed pork buns) or head to Shanghai Yoen 00 81 54 641 1595 for their thick, juicy sheng jian bao dumplings. The gilded Manchinrō Honten boasts the title of Chinatown’s oldest Cantonese restaurant. Order the anmitsu – a clear jelly made from red algae. Get a taste of the city’s signature dish, gyu-nabe, at the understated Araiya araiya.co.jp near Bashamichi station, where the traditional hot pot of thin-sliced beef is cooked in a rich soy warishita sauce. Two-Michelin-starred Sugai 00 81 45 664 2885 offers a quality omakase experience. The menu is at the chef’s discretion, but expect plenty of raw seafood, including abalone, urchin and octopus. The Kannai district is the place for late-night revelry. Head to Yokohama Bay Brewing yokohamabaybrewing.jp for local brew Kirin, or their award-winning Bay Pilsner.
Hop on retro Akai Kutsu city bus at Sakuragicho
station for one-way tours around all the best sightseeing spots
in the city (from £3.55). yokohamajapan.com
Currency is the Japanese yen (JPY). Time is 8 hours ahead of the UK. Flight time from London to Tokyo is around 12.5 hours. Yokohama is 25 minutes by bus from Tokyo Haneda Airport; 80 minutes by train from Tokyo Narita. hnd-bus.com jreast.co.jp
Japan Airlines flies from Heathrow to Tokyo Haneda. uk.jal.co.jp
Emirates flies from Manchester to Tokyo Narita. emirates.com
Yokohama’s Visitors’ Guide is the city’s tourist board. Its website is a font of information. welcome.city.yokohama.jp
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Min Temp | 2 | 2 | 5 | 11 | 15 | 18 | 22 | 24 | 21 | 15 | 10 | 5 |
Max Temp | 8 | 8 | 11 | 16 | 21 | 23 | 26 | 28 | 25 | 20 | 15 | 11 |
mm | 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 5 | 6 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 6 | 4 | 1 |
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