Why go?

The Romans knew it as Eboracum. To the Saxons it was Eoforwick. The Vikings invaded and called it Jorvik. History has characterised this beautiful city, known for its medieval architecture and cobbled streets or ‘snickelways’ that wind haphazardly around the centre; lavish Georgian town houses and a grand Victorian railway station. York is now a celebrated gourmet destination, famed for fashion and home to Judi Dench. Add the seductions of its confectionery heritage, quirky teashops, artisan delis and mini-London high street and you begin to understand why York is regarded as a shopping alternative to the capital.

What to do

All snickelways lead to the toweringly impressive Minster and the largest gothic cathedral in Northern Europe, which presides over the centre and is a good place to start. Underground tunnels lead to Roman, Saxon and Norman remains in its undercroft and crypt. Head upwards, for spectacular views from the top, while a walk around the city’s medieval stone walls (the longest in England) will help you to get your bearings, providing vistas over city rooftops and gardens. Spy places to revisit between the turrets. The heart of the city is largely traffic- free, making it pleasant to stroll around, day and night. Stonegate and Petergate are two stylish shopping streets, still running along the same routes as they did 2,000 years ago, when they were called Via Praetoria and Via Principalis. Coffee Yard, Swinegate, Grape Lane (formerly Grope Lane) and Mad Alice Lane are also great little laneways to lose yourself in. The Shambles is a former street of butchers’ shops with wide ‘window bottoms’ (sills) where the meat hooks still hang, though the tiny shops are now stocked with antiques and jewellery. Fairfax House is worth a visit to wonder at the huge high ceilings and fin de siècle decor. And as a sweet finish to your day, a couple of hours are well spent experiencing the Chocolate Story (yorkschocolatestory.com), which takes you on a journey of indulgence to reveal York’s sweet history where brands like Nestlé Rowntree and Terry’s started out. At the Cocoa House, you can join in a chocolate-making class and sample delicious homemade chocs (yorkcocoahouse.co.uk).

Where to stay

The Judge’s Lodging is a stylish and reasonably priced town house hotel right in the heart of the action. Originally the official residence for assize court judges for over 170 years, the Grade-II-listed Georgian building has a modern indoor- outdoor dining space and roof terrace. Rooms are compact yet comfortable and a knitted tea cosy will keep your pot of best Yorkshire brew hot (01904 638733, judgeslodgingyork.co.uk). What used to be palatial railway offices is now The Grand, a plush five-star hotel and spa. Domed archways lead to impressive rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, while Hudson’s restaurant does mighty fine steaks teamed for traditionalists with perfect onion rings and pepper sauce, served in a wood- clad, candlelit dining room replete with huge chandeliers (01904 380038, thegrandyork.co.uk).

Where to eat and drink

Hidden in the Museum Gardens is the star of York’s culinary scene, The Star Inn the City (01904 619208, starinnthecity.co.uk), where Michelin-starred chef Andrew Pern cooks in a converted pumping station with a flashy glass-fronted dining space. Goosegog Bellini is a sparkling start (gin-soaked gooseberries drenched in champagne), while home-baked breads are served quirkily in flat caps and top dishes include scallops with pork cheek, and crunchy Indian-spiced piccalilli with kedgeree topped with a perfectly poached egg. A spin on good- old Yorkshire classics like lemon posset and ginger parkin finish off the meal nicely. Bettys is the place to take high tea and indulge in macarons with your Earl Grey (01904 659142, bettys.co.uk).

Time running out?

Find Hairy Fig on Fossgate, serving fine fodder: toasties with a twist (black pudding, apple and goat’s cheese) and eel fillets with beetroot horseradish and potato gnocchi.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Getting There

By car York is situated only 20 minutes from the M1/M62 motorway network. Frequent Park and Ride bus services operate into the city centre.
By rail York is on the East Coast mainline. It takes less than two hours from London. It is served by East Coast (eastcoast.co.uk) and Grand Central Trains (grandcentralrail.com).

Resources

Visit York (visityork.org) is the official website of the visitors’ bureau. It has a wealth of information for planning your trip.