Why go?

The Alpine Lake Zell draw visitors to this majestic corner of the Austrian Alps all year round, but in winter the tiny chocolate-box town of Zell am See really comes into its own. Despite its relatively small size, it has an impressively lively après-ski scene; after a hard day on the slopes, you can hit any number of buzzing yet unpretentious cafés or bars on the cobblestoned streets, most offering the comforts of a roaring log fire, and all a soothing glass of mulled wine or an ice-cold beer.

What to do

As Zell am See (literally, ‘Zell by the Lake’) is named after Lake Zell, it would only be right to start here. Breathe in the crisp mountain air and take a leisurely stroll over the frozen waters – but watch out for eager skaters zig-zagging their way across the ice. Back on shore, busy Altstadt – the old town – is a tangle of narrow streets that are perfect for exploring on foot. In the heart of the town, you’ll find the Romanesque St Hippolyte Church. Dating back to the 11th century, it towers an impressive 36 metres above the town and dominates the skyline. Step inside to admire the early Roman frescoes on the ceiling and the church’s four marble pillars on which you can see intricate carvings. Next door, the local museum is housed inside an old medieval tower, dating back to 926. It’s the oldest building in town and here, spread over four floors, you’ll find information about the region’s history and can view a collection of quirky artefacts, ranging from costumes to furniture. Nearby is the 16th-century Rosenberg Castle – known these days as the Schloss Rosenberg Town Hall. It’s a striking example of typical Austrian architecture: a four-storey chalet, with wooden shutters, four corner turrets and a central tower. If you do find yourself in Zell am See, the chances are that you’ll be donning your ski gear at some point. The 2,000m high Schmittenhöhe mountain range is a skiers’ paradise, boasting 77km of tree-lined runs with fantastic views over Lake Zell, whereas the Kitzsteinhorn glacier offers the most extensive snowboarding parks in the area and skiing for 10 months a year.

Where to stay

Grand Hotel (00 43 6542 7880, grandhotelzellamsee.at) has an enviable location right on the shores of Lake Zell. In the courtyard you’ll find the distinctive Austrian Fountain, created by the 20th-century Austrian painter and architect Hundertwasser. The contemporary wellness hotel Tauern Spa (00 43 43 6547 20 400, tauernspakaprun.com) has panoramic views of the area and spacious rooms. Indulge tired après-ski legs with a muscle-relaxing treatment at the indoor SPA Waterworld or head to the outdoor sauna. The Volvo Ice Camp (00 43 676 933 9757, kitzsteinhorn.at) is the coolest hotel in town. You’ll sleep in igloos on beds hollowed out of ice that come with thermal mats and cosy reindeer-fur blankets.

Where to eat and drink

Award-winning Mayer’s restaurant (00 43 6542 72 9110, schlossprielau.at) is located in hotel Schloss Prielau. Here, guests can expect to find saddle of Austrian venison and local lamb. Erlhof (00 43 6542 56637, erlhof.at) is a popular chalet restaurant in a rustic setting that offers a good balance of Italian and traditional Austrian mountain cooking. Feed your hunger at café-restaurant Areitalm (00 43 6542 57177) conveniently located a few minutes walk from the Areitbahn lift. The Wiener schnitzel and home-made desserts including white cheese strudel are a must-try. The restaurant also specialises in a range of Austrian wine including spicy grüner veltliner and crisp riesling. Bag a table outside Da Jagawirt (00 43 6547 8737, jagawirtkaprun.at). The owner serves excellent wild game that he has hunted himself. Order the wild goat in mushroom sauce with black bread dumplings.

Time running out?

Don’t leave without trying Kaiserschmarrn, an Austrian shredded omelette which can be made sweet or savoury but is best served hot with either jam or apple sauce.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Zell am See is an hour ahead of GMT. Zell am See is an hour by car from Salzburg, which is a two-hour flight from London.

Getting There

Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies direct to Salzburg from London Stansted.
British Airways (ba.com) operates flights to Salzburg.

Resources

Zell am See Tourist Office (zellamseekaprun.com) and the Austrian National Tourist Office (austria.info) are good sources of general city and skiing information.