Kiat Raja Ampat

Live and Learn

Global holidays can be so much more rewarding if you get to discover a new skill at the same time. Lucy Kehoe returns to the classroom on eight trips, from sculpting in Sicily to fishing in Colorado, that blend travel and learning.

This Article was taken from the October 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

Forest Foraging Sweden

Thanks to Sweden’s law-enshrined allemansrätten, which ensures public access rights to its vast wild landscapes, hungry foragers can legally roam any field, forest or meadow in the Scandinavian country, passing from curving lakeside to deep forest on the hunt for ripe berries, earthy mushrooms and other edible wild plants. In early autumn, the Jämtland Härjedalen region in central-western Sweden – which consists of two neighbouring provinces home to soaring mountain ranges, deep forests and some of the country’s largest lakes – is stocked to the brim with bright red lingonberries, plump blackberries, cheery yellow chanterelles, portly ceps, nettles, wood sorrel and more.

Whether you’re a foraging newbie or an experienced wild eater, a six-day Autumnal Foraging Adventure with Slow Adventure will sharpen up exploratory skills as local wild-food experts help you navigate the natural larder. They’ll take you on an edible safari on foot, by bike and canoe through the wilderness, discovering surprising flavours and gastronomic delights hidden in plain sight in the great outdoors. You’ll be taught to fish from local rivers, transform your berry haul into traditional Swedish jams and enjoy outdoor lunches and campfire dinners after a day’s mushroom hunting. Along the way, you’ll learn about the animals – including elks, reindeer and bears – that also dine alfresco in the region. And it’s not all about scouring for sustenance: Sami guides are on hand to help navigate mountain paths; there are dairies and smokehouses making some of the region’s award-winning produce to visit; and every tour concludes with a traditional kräftskiva or crayfish party, an annual Swedish feasting tradition where communities get together to dine on the seasonal seafood, drink aquavit and sing joyous, kräftskiva-themed folk songs. This being Sweden, your mountain lodge accommodation comes equipped with a wood-fired sauna too.

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Travel Details

Six days from £1,746pp, including accommodation, meals, activities, bike and canoe rental. slow-adventure.com

Sculpting in Italy

There are few better ways to improve your own artistic skills than by studying some of history’s most mesmerising creative endeavours. And few better places than Sicily, home to ancient Greeks, Romans, Normans and Arabian civilisations throughout history to discover a cornucopia of artworks to inspire burgeoning modern-day artists. From the marble Motya Charioteer – one of Italy’s finest examples of ancient Greek sculpture – to the majestic Dancing Satyr, a classical bronze statue fished from the sea in 1998, this island fuels creativity.

A seven-day retreat with Artist Retreats, open to all levels, will see you learning to sculpt the human form in clay under the tutelage of a modern-day Hephaestus, contemporary American sculptor Brian Booth Craig. Live-model sessions in the studio are combined with one-on-one tutor feedback and visits to sites across the island to explore Sicily’s impact on thousands of years of European art. And your stay at boutique Baglio Custera will help get the creative juices flowing: perched on the Rakalia hill – once an ancient shrine to Hercules – in Marsala in the west of the island and surrounded by fragrant orange groves, this contemporary farmhouse overflows with generous Sicilian hospitality. Enjoy home-cooked lunches at the modern onsite studio, and sumptuous dinners by candlelight, all made using locally sourced ingredients, from tender octopus and rabbit ragù to Marsala-soaked tiramisu.

There’s also ample free time to explore western Sicily’s beautiful coastline, including the dramatic Egadi Islands. The nearest, Favignana – visible from the hotel’s pool terrace – seems almost sculpted by empyrean hands and is said to have inspired Homer’s Odyssey’s mythical islands. Head over by hydrofoil to explore dramatically carved coves and rocky beaches ripe for artistic interpretation.

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Travel Details

Seven days from £2,730pp, including all materials, accommodation and meals. artistretreats.com

Fly Fishing in USA

No, it’s not just the views across the Rockies taking your breath away: at 2,600m above sea level, a trip to Colorado’s Taylor River Lodge requires determined fly-fishing students to acclimatise a little. Luckily, this former rural general store, which feels off-grid but sits only 30 minutes’ drive from charming mountain town Crested Butte, has been transformed into an outdoorsy adventure lodge packed with home comforts and everything needed to teach beginners tackle tricks for catching trout. Don’t be deceived by the frontiersman-style exteriors of the eight cosy guest cabins: inside, log furnishings, homespun fabrics and vintage wildlife prints (plus the odd wildlife trophy) blend Americana charm with out-and-out luxury. Views of the swooping, granite-crowned peaks of the Rockies and panoramic vistas of the river from every window ensure serious frontier vibes. You’ll get to grips with your rod under the eagle eyes of the lodge’s fly fishing experts: join a beginner’s casting clinic, practise at the on-site casting pond, then wade through the river’s tumbling waters and try your luck. Meals, made from local ingredients including elk and fresh trout, are enjoyed in the main lodge, with post-prandial cocktails served at the horseshoe-shaped bar or around the grand main fireplace.

For those struggling to land a catch, wader-free activities include hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, rafting, kayaking, archery and axe-throwing, as well as visits to the rustic spa cabin.

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Travel Details

Doubles from £1,899 (minimum two nights), including all meals and activities. elevenexperience.com

Stargazing in Wales

Do you know your Cygnus from your Centaurus? Explore the stars – and understand what you’re looking at – on a weekend away in the Cambrian Mountains, which lay claim to some of the darkest night skies found in the UK. Home to an International Dark Sky Park, and nine Dark Sky Discovery Sites, the Welsh uplands provide epic sightlines for celestial observations. Under the guidance of a master astrologer, you’ll learn the basics of stargazing and astrophotography, using specialist astronomical equipment to scan the skies for constellations, nebulae, star clusters and the Milky Way. Late nights are to be expected; handily, this weekend adventure includes accommodation in one of six cosy wooden glamping pods on site, all equipped with ensuites and kitchenettes, as well as fire pits and hot tubs beneath the twinkling stars. Take a break from stargazing to explore the surrounding mountains: chef Gareth Ward’s award-winning Ynyshir restaurant is 30 minutes’ drive away.

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Travel Details

Two nights from £479pp, including tutelage and accommodation. darkskywalestrainingservices.co.uk

Cooking in Japan

Oysters, squid, snow crab, sweet amaebi shrimp and amberjack are among the marine ingredients that shape Ishikawa’s seafood-focused cuisine. The prefecture, a three-hour train ride from Tokyo, has long made the most of its sea-hugging; you’ll find rice paddies, saké breweries and fishing ports producing some of Japan’s top produce all along the coast. A visit to the historic capital, Kanazawa, once a wealthy outpost in the Edo period – well worth combining with a stay in the capital – should revolve around feasting on the seasonal delicacies landed from the Sea of Japan too. On a guided tour of the bustling Omicho Market with In Kanazawa House, you’ll learn how to spot the freshest ingredients, shopping alongside local chefs and restaurateurs, before heading to the 100-year-old In Kanazawa House to discover how to prepare local dishes. The historic house in the city’s ancient samurai district offers kaga-ryori classes – a local cuisine born during the Edo period, when the ruling Maeda family put an emphasis on extravagant hospitality, serving multi-course meals of local, seasonal ingredients – and temari sushi making classes, a visually beautiful style of sushi preparation. Note the exquisite crockery used to present the dishes you prepare: Ishikawa is famous for its heritage craft scene, which includes the production of Kutaniware porcelain and Wajima laquerware. If you’re keen to experience some of the city’s best seafood, book a dinner at Crafeat craft-eat.com in the Chaya district (the only place in Japan outside Kyoto where geisha continue to operate) for a multi-course omakase served on elegant, gold-leafed lacquerware. Or head to the tiny, one-man-bistro Escaliers, on Katamachi, where the chef whips up award-winning fusion dishes using fresh market produce.

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Travel Details

Three-hour market tour and cooking class with lunch from £68pp. in-kanazawa.com

Photography in Norway

Find inspiration for your lens in the celestial light displays above arctic Norway. Under the guidance of esteemed photographer (and regular Food and Travel contributor) Ewen Bell, plus photography guide Ian Rolfe, a 14-day adventure offers the chance to chase flirtatious flutters of colour across inky Artic skies, learning how to capture the ephemeral aurora borealis above the Tromso fjords, the dramatic coastal scenery of Senja and the peaks of the Lygen Alps. With transport on call if the famously flaky celestial night show makes an appearance, this expansive tour pairs spectacular scenery with on-the-ground know-how to ensure a high likelihood of capturing the nighttime phenomenon above jaw-dropping landscapes. Expect to visit tucked-away fishing villages, dramatic, plunging fjords, moonlit mountain peaks and snow-blanketed coastlines. Alongside technical advice, the duo emphasise the importance of nurturing a creative vision in your travel photography – so expect to discover why you’re snapping shots alongside how best to do it. Staying in remote cabins to maximise your time under the skies, you’ll be well fed thanks to the skills of private chef Shellie Froidevaux, who plates up fresh, seasonal dinners using ingredients from the region (and whose knowledge of local bakeries makes cinnamon bun stops a highlight). When time allows, Ewen ensures the small group experiences a flavour of local life too: tour guide Gunnar is a dab-hand with a fishing line and has been known to hack out a hole on the ice, catch some fresh fjord fish and cook it up on the spot for ravenous snappers.

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Travel Details

14 days from £9,730pp, including accommodation, transportation and tuition. ewenbell.com

Conserving coral in Indonesia

Mix vacation with vocation on a seven-day, over-water Rascal Voyages adventure through Indonesia’s Raja Ampat, a paradisaical archipelago of more than 1,500 jungle-covered islands in West Papua. Bunking up in comfort on a sustainably run traditional wooden boat built by local craftspeople that sleeps ten, and navigating between hidden lagoons, dramatic rock formations and malachite-coloured bays, you’ll learn about the importance of the region’s coral reefs from onboard marine biologists, before diving overboard to help to record reef health and restore damaged reefs using methods such as coral transplantation. Alongside snorkelling sessions to spy on the kaleidoscopic circus of fish life (plus occasional manta rays and turtles), this unconventional conservation voyage offers guests the chance to interact with Raja Ampat’s communities, joining fishing and cooking sessions for insights into how they maintain and support coral health.

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Travel Details

Seven nights from £6,965pp, including meals, activities and excursions. rascalvoyages.com

Wine paring in France

There’s nothing like a countryside stomp to work up a thirst. On this small-group walking wine tour based in Saussignac, expect to learn plenty about both terrain and terroir as you make tracks through some of France’s most iconic wine regions. Trailing behind winegrower and maker Caro Feely, oenophiles will discover the history, culture and creativity of Gallic viticulture on a slow-paced exploration of vineyards in St Emilion, Bordeaux and Saussignac. Expect to duck into the subterranean cellars of grand cru estates, enjoy numerous biodynamic tasting experiences, meander the evocative streets of Bergerac’s old town, visit organic food markets and learn to pair local wines with regional dishes as you dine in farmhouse restaurants and Michelin-starred spots. You’ll check in at Chateau Feely, the organic vineyard owned by Caro, which offers private self-catering accommodation and, at sunrise, the option of yoga lessons between the vines.

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Travel Details

4 nights from £1,202pp, including accommodation, breakfast, lunch and wine tastings. frenchwineadventures.com

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