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Piste de Résistance - Snow

Stretch the ski season well into spring and chase the snow by heading up high to these late-season resorts

Words by Mary Novakovich and Rachel Walker

This article was taken from the March 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

Val D'Isère France

It may be 250m lower than neighbouring Tignes, but Val d’Isère is home to The Snow Factory – the largest snow-making facility in Europe – which gives the resort an edge in the event of a warm spring. Plus, its sheer size (over 10,000 skiable hectares across Val d’Isère-Tignes) increases the odds for finding some decent slopes, even late on in the season. There’s varied terrain to suit all abilities, starting with wide, gentle slopes at the bottom of the Solaise, perfect for beginners to build confidence. Then there are the rolling pistes on the Bellevarde side of the mountain and the long runs around Le Fornet, flanked by exciting off-piste options.

Ambitious skiers will no doubt be drawn toward La Face de Bellevarde – the resort’s most precarious black slope – a 3km run with a vertical of over 850m. Make note, there’s a restaurant part-way down, La Peau de Vache, should sustenance be required before navigating the tricky final third – and if it feels more sensible to bail, then just below the restaurant is a little-known path on to the more manageable red run of Joseray, which spits you out on to the bottom of La Face.

For those left brimming with adrenaline, there are few better places to blow off steam than Val d’Isère – the dozens of bars and several clubs open to the early hours pay testament to its lively reputation. No doubt there’s a more sophisticated side too, with a growing appreciation for Savoyard cuisine and deliciously crisp, elegant Savoie white wines.

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Travel Details

WHERE TO EAT

ON THE SLOPES

l’Edelweiss Halfway down the Mangard piste above Le Fornet, this gem of a mountain hut punches far above its weight. Sitting re-side with a duck burger in hand and a crème brlée for good measure, it can be hard to pull yourself away and ski back. Two courses around £24.

IN TOWN

La Table de L’Ours The poetic menus set the tone: there’s a sense of theatre around every cleverly construed dish. Epect delicacies like Savoie snails or saddle of venison, enhanced with a wisp
of pine smoke or herb-avoured oil – and accompanied with interesting local wines. Four courses £140. hotellesbarmes.com

WHERE TO STAY

Hôtel Le Blizzard Facing the Bellevarde, this family-owned hotel has bijou rooms and the lure of an indoor-outdoor pool. The open-re bar is a great spot to kick back with one of their eau de vie at the end of a day on the slopes. Doubles from £400. hotelblizzard.com

Victoria Lodge What this new launch lacks in plush furnishings it more than makes up for in generous, delicious breakfasts. Doubles from £210 (min two nights). en.victoriafriendlyhotel.com

Val Thorens France

Holding the title of Europe’s highest ski resort, Val Thorens is one
of the best bets for both early and late skiing, with 150km of pistes well above the treeline. Mileage-hungry skiiers have a total of 600km across the Trois Vallées domain, which includes Orelle next door in the Maurienne Valley (also open until 5 May). It’s the starting point for the Tyrolienne zipwire that whizzes thrill seekers across to Val Thorens at 100km/h – though there’s just as much exhilaration to be had on the slopes. The descent from the Cime de Caron at 3,200m meanders down red and black pistes before covering more ground in neighbouring Les Menuires – an epic route that harnesses the euphoric feeling of freedom found in the mountains.

And, while spring sees lower-altitude resorts begin to wind down, Les 3 Vallées ramps things up with the annual Enduro competition on 31 March enduro.les3vallees.com which capitalises on the area’s snow-sureness by welcoming thousands of pros and amateurs alike to compete in teams of three. This year sees new events (Giant Slalom) as well as regulars
on Val Thorens’ Génépi slope.

No surprise that the town plays host to one of the main after-parties – the resort has long been famed for its youthful spirit. Over recent years, however, a more upmarket scene has emerged (the sense of serenity and artful dishes at Michelin-starred Le Daimant Noir are testament to that), but there’s no doubt the après-ski remains strong.

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Travel Details

WHERE TO EAT

ON THE SLOPES

Le Cèpe It’s just two ski lifts from Val Thorens into the Méribel valley – take a bowl of Le Cèpe’s legendary mushroom ‘cappuccino’ soup on the sun-drenched terrace, followed by regional delicacies including veal sweetbreads and pain perdu with snails; the more adventurous might consider rounding things off with a Mont Blanc, which incorporates porcini ice cream into the dessert mountain. Two courses from £51. 00 33 4 79 22460

IN TOWN

La Laiterie It’s rare to come across a more considered fondue or Raclette menu than that done in collaboration with local cheesemaker Frédéric Royer – whose knowledge on heritage breeds, rich terroir and artful ripening knows no bounds. Pair with wines from the same origin for the ultimate Savoyard experience. Three-course menu £55.

WHERE TO STAY

Fahrenheit Seven For great late-season value and true ski-in-ski-out, you can’t do better than this retro-style design hotel. Expect generously sized rooms, hearty breakfasts and stunning views from 2,300m up. Doubles from £320. fahrenheitseven.com

Refuge de la Traye This isolated getaway deep within the mountains is as immersive as it gets, with everything from Savoyard cooking classes to pottery workshops, archery and massages in the animal-skin teepee available. And when the slopes beckon, staff will happily chauffeur guests to and from the cable car at Les Allues in one of the electric 4x4s. Doubles from £637. refugedelatraye.fr

Obertauern Austria

It’s a double chairlift to the highest point of Obertauern – over 2,300m up, where the fresh powder sparkles and the enormous sky is framed by panoramic views across the Radstädter Tauern mountains. From the top of the Gamsleiten 2 – one of the steepest slopes in the Alps – the only way is down, through the mogul eld on this ehilarating black run. ocated at the top of a mountain pass between two valleys, Obertauern is Austria’s most snow-sure resort. The 100km of varied, high-Alpine runs are sheer joy, offering something for all abilities – from steep freeride trails off the Seekarspitz chairlift to gentle slopes at the bottom of this bowl-shaped resort, for beginners. Before leaving the slopes stop at Achenrain Hütte for a Pear Williams (schnapps).

If a full-day’s skiing doesn’t suffice, there’s the chance to extend it into the night every Monday and Thursday, when the Edelweissbahn chairlift opens from 7-10pm. There’s also the option to shake things up with snow bike hire – £30 for half a day at Schischule Koch, skikoch.at – and horse-drawn sleigh rides are available at the Gnadenalm or the Tauern in Tweng.

Obertauern is purpose-built, which makes it easy to access ski-in-ski-out hotels. It also has plenty to tempt revellers out until the small hours, as well as more refined options such as the bar at Hotel Steiner, which is good for a cocktail or two. Despite great ski conditions, cuisine and convenience, the resort still somehow flies under the radar.

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Travel Details

WHERE TO EAT

ON THE SLOPES

Kringsalm This lively mountain hut offers a self-service restaurant, but it’s worth booking a table at the Krings Stüberl and going à la carte. Dive into jägerpfandl – wild boar ragù with spätzle dumplings – followed by Austria’s signature no-holds-barred pancake dessert of kaiserschmarrn. Three courses around £45. kringsalm.at
Achenrain Hütte An essential waypoint – it’s one of the oldest mountain hütte with great atmosphere and sensational homemade schnapps from £4. achenrainhuette.com

IN TOWN

Restaurant Herzenslust From local venison to an eceptional pine needle pasta, epect tradition with a twist, all accompanied by ecellent grüner veltliners, rieslings and house-distilled gins. Two courses from £38. herzens-lust.at

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Das Seekarhaus This family-run hotel was established by the three Krings brothers, who also built Obertauern’s rst small tow-lift in 1957. As the resort has grown, so too has this prime- location hotel – now epitomising luury from its innity pool to eight-course ne dining. Doubles from £350. seekarhaus.at

Sporthotel SnowWhite A great location with super-easy access to the slopes, the ski room is right beside the slopes, it has a brilliant spa and saunas, and is a great spot for skiers to rest their head to be first in line for the lifts. Doubles from £108. snowwhite-obertauern.at

Lech Austria

Classy, discreet, but entirely lacking in snootiness and still holding on to its origins as a farming village, Lech certainly qualifies as one of Austrias prettiest ski resorts. It also has an enviable snow record and - along with its Arlberg neighbours Zürs, Warth and St Anton - is part of Austria's largest ski region. One of the best ways to familiarise yourself with the area is Der Weiße Ring (The White Ring) which is a half-day circuit over 22km, taking-in Lech, Zürs, Zug, and Oberlech – with breathtaking 360-degree views from the Rüfikopf mountain station (2,350m) making for a great place to pause on the sun terrace and get your bearing.

There's no doubt the traditional inns straddling the River Lech have become ever more luxurious over the years, but it's car-free Oberlech, sitting on a plateau some 200m above the main resort, that is the most exclusive area, accessible from the town by a late-running cable car. And forget the revelry of St Anton: the scene in Lech veers more toward fine dining, well-curated cellars and sophisticated cocktails. For good value, consider looking to neighbouring areas – for example, up-and-coming Warth has late-season appeal thanks to its north-facing slopes (still with access to Lech on the Ski Arlberg pass) The recent arrival of Berghotel Biberkof biberkopf.at and Holzgauer Haus holzgauerhaus.at hints at a new scene emerging in the slightly more affordable outskirts.

Skifahren in Lech Zürs c Sepp Mallaun c Lech Zürs Tourismus 6

Travel Details

WHERE TO EAT

ON THE SLOPES

Arlberg Hospiz Alm A serious wine cellar and a reputation for some of the best Tyrolean fine-dining makes this an evening hotspot, but by day you can enjoy Wiener schnitzel and famous hospiz kaiserschmarrn (caramelised pancaked with fruit) on the terrace and heated lounge area. The slide to the bathroom downstairs hints at the air of eccentricity that underpins the warm hospitality in this legendary mountain hut. Mains around £20. arlberghospiz-alm.at

IN TOWN

Hus No 8 It's hard to get more traditional than this wooden-clad restaurant in the centre of Lech, where cheese plays a starring role – spätzle, knödel, fondue, Raclette, plus the house speciality of cheese soup. Three courses from £45. hus8.at

Alpine Retreat at Severin*s Just a ten-minute stroll from the centre of town, it's worth a visit to the hotel's excellent restaurant which champions local ingredients - and, by springtime, often features elements foraged nearby in its clever and artful plates. Three courses from £81 (book ahead). severins-lech.at

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Maiensee This family-run hotel in the tiny village of St Christoph strikes the perfect balance between contemporary and cosy. It's in a prime position - just metres away fom the nearest lift, which gives access to the whole Arlberg ski area. Comfortable rooms, many with south-facing balconies, an excellent spa and intimate dinners served in the wood-panelled dining room. Doubles from £482, including breakfast. maiensee.com

Zermatt Switzerland

The ever-looming presence of the Matterhorn's magnificent jagged peak means it's little wonder the car-free and beautiful resort of Zermatt is considered one of the best in the world. Its top lift hovers at around 3,800m - the Alps' highest - and with over 1,200 snow cannons to bolster any shortfall, the odds are weighted in skiers' favour. What's more, last summer signalled an exciting new chapter of cableway travel, with The Matterhorn Alpine Crossing linking Zermatt with Cervinia in Italy - a 90-minute journey that involves the highest-altitude boarder crossing and lure of frontier skiing.

Up until the late-19th century, Zermatt was a farming community (the pull of the Matterhorn put it on the map during the 'Golden age of Alpinism'). There are still hints of its rural part in the converted wooden barns, stables and warehouses making up Hinterdorf - the oldest part of the village - yet it's only the beautiful aesthetics that keep Zermatt rooted in the past. In springtime music lovers flock to Zermatt Unplugged - a festival at the foot of the Matterhorm (this year, 9-13 April) which includes a 'Taste Village' alongside the 100-plus concerts. Track down Gommer cholera (a cheese and vegetable pie from the nearby Goms region), hunker around a campfire and recharge after a day on the slopes.

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Travel Details

WHERE TO EAT

ON THE SLOPES

Findlerhog This Sunnegga mountain restaurant is a longer walk from the piste than its better-known neighbour Chez Vrony, but it's worth the trek for fabulous Matterhorn views and cheesy rösti. Three courses from £42.

IN TOWN

Restaurant Alm A friendly, family-run place near the Furi gondola with its own trout pond and beautifully buttery grilled trout. Three courses £60.

WHERE TO STAY

The Omnia The Matterhorn forms an exchanting backdrop to this sleek yet sympathetically designed luxury hotel. The spa's indoor and outdoor pools make the most of those views, as does the fine-dining restaurant. Doubles from £590. the-omnia.com

Tannenhof Zermatt With a prime location in the centre of town, elegant rooms and generous breakfasts, it's an affordable all-rounder. Doubled from £265. tannenhofzermatt.ch

Courmayeur Italy

Courmayeur may be small, but it’s perfectly formed – an all- rounder resort that ticks all the boxes. The skiable area extends over two slopes: the Chécrouite and Val Veny, which, as the shadier side of the mountain, is the best bet for snow later on in the season. Then there’s the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car, which soars to 3,466m, providing awe-inspiring views across the Mont Blanc massif. The route down isn’t groomed or patrolled, but it’s nothing an intermediate with a guide and decent conditions couldn’t handle.

Once a 17th-century spa town, Courmayeur remains about much more than sport, though. Just a couple of miles outside the centre, the Pré Saint Didier thermal baths qcterme.com provide aching muscles with an oasis of relaxation and wellness: thermal water, whirlpools and waterfalls (from £40).

Back in town, the historic centre is an ideal spot for the late-afternoon passeggiata, with no shortage of options for an espresso or aperitivo. There’s no doubt this is one of the top ‘gourmet resorts’, with something for all budgets – from some seriously good pizza and pasta joints to more lofty examples of Aosta Valley’s cuisine, well showcased in the town’s Michelin-starred restaurants, and affordable options in-between.

Skyway Monte Bianco ph Aiace Bazzana

Travel Details

WHERE TO EAT

ON THE SLOPES

La Chaumière Aosta Valley flavours, from hard cheeses and black bread to poached martine pears and local wines are served up with epic views on the vast sun terrace, or hunker down in the wood-clad dining room. Two courses around £25. lachaumiere.it

IN TOWN

La Clotze The decor is simple, but it’s all about the dishes in this family-run spot a short drive out of town. This is mountain food at its finest - cured meats, chestnuts and honey, homemade gnocchi and torta. Three courses from £44. ristorantelaclotze.it

WHERE TO STAY

Grand Hotel Courmayeur Mont Blanc Enormous windows let in the light and mountain views in this elegant five-star hotel with an Erre spa and sophisticated restaurant. Doubles from £330. grandhotelcourmayeurmontblanc.it

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