Aethos Ericeira Hotel

Portugal

The Silver Coast of Portugal is famed for its world-class surf – but this laidback clifftop retreat has big offerings beyond the waves in the form of superlative local cuisine, gorgeous beaches and views

The wild side of Portugal might just be one of the most naturally spectacular
slices of coast in Europe, and in Aethos Ericeira it has a hotel that embraces the ocean, encapsulates the feel of the relaxed realm of surfing and, more importantly, reflects this part of the world’s abundant natural flavours with its impressive food offering.

Central Portugal’s Atlantic coast is overlooked by many in favour of the glitz of the southern shoreline, and yet it’s perhaps the choice for the more discerning traveller. The Costa da Prata, the Silver Coast, is a specific stretch running for 240km from just north
of Lisbon in the south to Porto in the north, and home to ancient towns and villages, beautifully wild beaches, whipped by the Atlantic and full of character at every turn.

It’s where you’ll find some of Europe’s best surf spots, which has naturally led to the laidback culture that goes with it: yoga, meditation, wellness and general good vibes all
around. Which is what you’ll find in abundance in the fishing town of Ericeira, less than an hour from Lisbon, which, despite being the host for big surfing events a few times each year, still keeps plenty of its rustic charm with cobbled streets and whitewashed buildings.

Aethos Ericeira, just north of the town, is perfectly placed for all things Silver Coast. There are 50 rooms and suites, but each is a little oasis, with the offering including ocean or courtyard views, stripped-back decor that doesn’t impinge on luxury details and
comfort. And, while days can be filled with surfing lessons, Pilates session and walks along pristine beaches, when you head back to your clifftop abode, you’ve got the
best flavours of Portugal. Options from the raw bar might include oysters with local sparkling wine vinegar, or fish of the day ceviche; starters can be super-traditional with Portuguese-style, à Bulhão Pato clams, before mains take you from grilled octopus to Portugal’s iconic cod – served here marinated in miso; and, of course, there’s a custard tart for dessert served with homemade ice cream. On the plate, on the doorstep, it’s always the best of Portugal.

Doubles from £204. 00 351 261 244 510, aethos.com

Words by Alex Mead.

This review was taken from the August/September 2023 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.