El Celler de Can Roca Hotel

Can Sunyer, 48, 17007, Girona

‘We are fortunate enough to be fully booked tonight, and every night’, a host says as I’m led to my table. So it goes at the world’s second best restaurant. From the moment you arrive, there’s a lot to process: the spacious private garden; towering trees that form a glassed-in garden in the centre of the restaurant; the parade of ‘snacks’ that begin your meal, including caramelised olives served on a living olive tree. As well as these nibbles you’ll experience around 21 courses, and like a symphony building to its crescendo, it’s not just the individual elements, it’s the way the whole masterpiece comes together (though a local red king prawn, slightly chargrilled, will stay in my food memory always). There are nods to Catalan cuisine – a black olive gazpacho with olive mousse, fritter and ice cream – and otherwise (elderflower infusion, cherries with Amaretto, gingered cherries and smoked sardine is the most beautiful dish I have seen). Wine pairings, predictably, are right on the money, with a Spanish focus. Almost every guest will get the chance to glimpse at least one of the three Roca brothers who own the place, which reminds you of what this is – the very best of family restaurants. AEM.