Four Seasons Sultanahmet Hotel

Istanbul, Turkey

Discover Istanbul from the comfort of a century-old prison-turned luxurious lodgings, where Turkey’s Ottoman past is evoked through hand-painted ceilings, ornate tiles and shimmering chandeliers

Sitting with a strong coffee and a delicate sweet cheese pastry in the fragrant courtyard of the Four Seasons Sultanahmet, history is all around. In a former life, in the early 1900s, this space served as an exercise yard for those incarcerated in the building – neoclassical in style, complete with sweeping arches and intricate tiling – and, back then, a prison. These days, even a new litter of kittens receives five-star treatment, with members of the 200-strong staff keeping a watchful eye over the kits and providing linens for their bed. It is indicative of the level of care that the hotel’s two-legged guests receive: leave your book, splayed, on a table in your room and return to find your page saved with a pretty, tasselled bookmark. Mention a fond memory of the menemen a Turkish friend used to prepare, and arrive at your breakfast table to be greeted with a plate of the warmly spiced scrambled-egg dish.

Set in the heart of Istanbul’s Old Town, the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque are among the architectural wonders right on the hotel’s doorstep, with the labyrinthine Grand Bazaar and its endless opportunities for haggling only a short stroll away. Sixty-five elegant rooms and suites are arranged around the central courtyard, with those on higher floors – some with private terraces – boasting mesmerising views over the rooftops to the Sea of Marmara. Warm, neutral tones abound. Hardwood floors are scattered with soft kilim rugs; original artworks invite closer inspection; platters of fresh fruit and artisan chocolates appear, as if by magic. Vast, marble-clad bathrooms, meanwhile, have powerful, walk-in showers, deep bathtubs, chic, richly patterned robes for guests’ use and an apothecary’s- worth of L’Occitane amenities.

The dining opportunities are equally sumptuous. Chef Savaş Aydemir is behind the elevated take on Mediterranean cuisine served in Seasons Restaurant, with seating both inside and out, on the airy terrace. Dishes such as seafood linguine and steamed sea bass join his signature boneless lamb shank, cooked for eight hours. Later, the rooftop A’YA Terrace, whose backdrop is the iconic Hagia Sofia, fairy-tale-like against the night sky, provides the perfect spot to savour a cocktail or glass of Turkish wine. By the time Sunday rolls around, with its Alice in Wonderland-esque afternoon- tea spread – all teeny macarons, cream cakes and baklava – we are ready to say, ‘lock us up and throw away the key’.

Doubles from £408. 00 90 212 402 3000, fourseasons.com

Words by Julie Alpine.

This review was taken from the October/November 2020 issue of Food and Travel.

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