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The panoramic views from the dining room windows are of Seago’s Norfolk: flat farmland and morning light glinting through thick hedgerows – an East Anglian idyll.
Indoors, Nest Farmhouse’s
breakfast follows suit. There are
Staithe kippers and ‘farmhouse
cures’ (roast ham, cured trout,
hard cheese, milk bread). An
enamel teapot on a cast iron trivet
is filled with good, strong tea.
There is a profound sense of place.
The setting is a working farm - it’s a long way from the rustic neighbourhood restaurant that opened in Hackney back in 2017,
but fitting for a restaurant group
that has made its name through
seasonal British tasting menus.
The past few years have seen the team expand to two grown-up sites in the capital and scoop both a Michelin and Green Star (at the Smithfield outpost, St Barts). It’s a story of good people doing things well and being rightly rewarded.
The opening of Nest Farmhouse follows pop-ups in Burnham Overy, and on a Friday night, the dining room buzzes. News travels fast here. The site is unlike anywhere else nearby – the dimensions of an old cowshed remain, but a wraparound veranda, porch tables for drinks and a low-hipped roof give the building a ranch feel.
The food is confident: a Pie of the Week (pork, smoked bacon, apricot and sage), well-dressed salads and Earl Grey crème brûlée. The five rooms (more to come) boast lofty proportions and great views. It’s by no means a rustic farmhouse aesthetic, but curated, modern, purposeful and delightful.
Doubles from £200.
Words by Rachel Walker.
This article was taken from the December 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.
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