Hanging Gardens of Bali Hotel

Indonesia

Floating amid a rainforest canopy and looking out across the staggering split-level swimming pool at its heart, the reputation of this Balinese resort precedes it. But that’s getting ahead of ourselves. Crafted by 700 or so local artisans and carved into the jungle-clad hills that rise from the Ayung River, Hanging Gardens has been on the scene since 2005. It sits to the north of the central town of Ubud, a serene retreat away from the hub of luxury properties that flank the riverbanks outside town, and a sure-fire pick for those seeking to fully unwind away from the crowds.

A set of small winding roads brings you to the somewhat nondescript arrival pavilion, before an open-to-the-elements funicular – the transport of choice for such steep hills – sweeps you to your villa and the true Edenic glory of the space reveals itself. Undulating down to the lush ravine below, flecking the jungle as they go with their thatched roofs, the discreet one- and two-bedroom villas come replete with handmade furniture, contemporary Balinese designways –including canopied four-poster beds – and terraces featuring both sun-kissed and dappled day beds plus outdoor showers. And a word of advice: sun-lovers would be wise to stick to a Suite or Panoramic Villa a little higher up, with those who prefer shade opting for the ones down in the riverside gorge. Either way, expect floating breakfasts served in your private pool and mesmeric views aplenty.

By day, you’d be well within your rights to simply bask beside the water, but there are plenty of other options to tempt you from your private sanctuary. Take the riverside spa, with outside treatment pavilions that allow you to zen-out lulled by the repetitive sounds of the rapids. A cerebral Balinese temple blessing might follow. Or perhaps opt for a riverside picnic lunch after a cooking class centred on local dishes and produce from the hotel garden and nearby market. Feeling more active? Take to the surrounding rice paddies and hills for a walk that reveals the island’s botanical wonder.

Ubud’s galleries, vibrant market, excellent restaurants – see Locavore and Room4Dessert, for instance – puppet theatre shows and the iconic Tegallalang rice terraces, are around a 30-minute drive away, helpfully serviced by a daily shuttle.

Pool villas from £359. 00 62 361 982700, hanginggardensofbali.com

Words by Blossom Green.

This review was taken from the Christmas 2021 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

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