Hotel Per La Hotel

California, USA

Discover the arty, historic side to southern California, USA, by resting up in a heritage building in Downtown LA that sets you down right in the heart of the Diamond District and away from the tourist trap

Whether you’re embarking on a road trip across the West Coast, taking a few days in the city before heading to the desert or you’re on a stopover en route to further-flung climes, Los Angeles is always a good idea. And with a host of new design-led neighbourhood joints coming to the fore, choosing a bed for the night is part of the pleasure.

Enter Hotel Per La, which opened last autumn in Downtown LA, a diverse area covering the art, historic and fashion districts plus Little Tokyo. Housed in the 12-storey former Bank of Italy – built in the Diamond District during the early Twenties –a sense of grandeur wafts throughout the neoclassical space.

Original Doric columns, gilded ceilings and marble floors have been brought up to date with complementary geometric tilework, bright hues, babbling fountains, botanical displays and over 4,000 pieces of art plucked from vintage Italian troves and modern commissions, including a hand-painted tapestry by LA muralist Jessalyn Brooks in the
lobby. Italian Riviera designways are a touchpoint across the 241 rooms and suites, married with abundant Californian flair. Whether you choose a functionalyet- chic studio room or a suite with sun-kissed terrace, expect soothing tones and luxe detail like leather bedheads and velvet chaise longues.

A rooftop pool, flanked by cabanas, citrus trees and skyscrapers, is the crowning glory – merging city slicker vibes with that of a holiday on the Med, thanks in part to the pool bar menu and Roman Orcus-style statue (the open mouth hosts a log fire come evening). On the ground floor, in the old banking hall, easygoing neighbourhood restaurant Per L’Ora serves up reimagined Italian classics with SoCal edge.

It’s the perfect spot to shake off the jetlag and get oriented with the sprawling urban scene that lies beyond. And the surrounding streets, away from the Hollywood tourist trap, offer a more authentic taste of city life with myriad art galleries, Grand Central Market, lauded restaurants and on-trend bars. So make like the locals in this home away from home.

Doubles from £210. 00 1 213 358 0000, hotelperla.com

Words by Blossom Green.

This review was taken from the April 2023 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.