Il Tabacchificio Hotel

Puglia, Italy

This impeccably restored former tobacco factory near Diso village in Puglia offers cool, spacious living quarters and the hippest of amenities, with surrounding villages and beaches making ideal day trips.

Words by Julie Alpine.

Two rows of emerald-green parasol pines line the approach to Il Tabacchificio, framing with heart-stopping symmetry this salmon-pink 1930s industrial design icon above the Adriatic coast of Salento. Backed by olive groves and orchards, the ex-tobacco factory – whose original signage, ‘Consorzio Agrario Provinciale’, still crowns the facade – represents bucolic southern Italian living at its most beguiling.

The cathedral-like sense of space that awaits on stepping inside the front door is like a spritz of chilled Evian water on a hot face. Pristine white walls and glossy grey concrete flooring are punctuated by vibrant succulents; a cow hide rug here, giant framed 1950s Traveller’s unique, film-set-worthy Italian film poster there. Sleeping up to 12 across six decadently spartan bedrooms, the clean lines are softened by woody-coloured throws and pillows, along with, in Room One, a magnificent egg-shaped freestanding white bathtub. Also at guests’ disposal are a home cinema, grass tennis court and 19m pool, its warm turquoise water oh-so inviting in the late-summer sunshine. Sprawling is positively encouraged, ideally with glass in hand, plate of local cheese and charcuterie within reach.

A daily cleaning service comes as standard, with a home cook and babysitter available on request, all welcome features of The Thinking Traveller's unique, film-set-worthy properties, but don’t let this stop you from exploring further afield. Start with nearby Castro village, whose evocative castle towers over Blue Flag beaches below. Later, embark on pasta-making lessons, boat trips and a visit to ancient masseria Le Stanzie. The region’s rich history of olive oil production is brought to life through a tour of its cool cellars and frantoio ipogeo (underground olive press), where the fuel destined for Dickensian London’s oil lamps once originated. Lunch here is a masterclass in Puglian cuisine starring kitchen garden produce.

DETAILS: From £6,987pw. 020 7377 8518, thethinkingtraveller.com

Three more in Puglia

Castello di Caprarica is another jewel in The Thinking Traveller’s portfolio. A palatial 16th-century castle, it boasts a stone-walled interior filled with contemporary creature comforts. Located within an easy stroll of the centre of Tricase, it makes a great base for those seeking both architectural and culinary riches, with a huge kitchen that lends itself to cookery classes. From £7,345pw (sleeps 18). 020 7377 8518, thethinkingtraveller.com

For those keen to experience life in a trulli house, Masseria Cervarolo in Ostuni offers cosyrooms and suites in individual trullis – dry stone buildings with a conical roof, unique to the Itria Valley. Interiors are rustic yet chic, and there’s a choice of indoor or outdoor dining. Doubles from £194. 00 39 831 303729, masseriacervarolo.it

Finally, Palazzo Guglielmo is one of the many medieval palaces of the Terra d’Otranto area. Expect a wealth of traditional features, including marble staircases. Twice a week the chef puts on a huge barbecue, showcasing prime local cuts. Doubles from £135. 00 39 327 093 7630, palazzoguglielmo.co.uk

This review was taken from the August/September 2020 issue of Food and Travel.

To subscribe today, click here.