Paragon 700, Italy Hotel

Italy

Paragon 700 summons all the grandeur you'd expect from a historic Puglian palazzon. Despite sitting dormant for 40 years, it's been restored to its former glory - the hand-painted motifs, intricate cornicing and vast proportions all creating drama worthy of a theatre set. The jewel in the crown – the Paragon Suite – features a sunken bath dropped into the parquet wood floor, so guests can bathe taking in the frescoed ceilings 6m above. In contrast, the hotel spa is all shadowy alcoves in a crypt-like space built into the ancient infrastructure of the old town. There’s no escaping the historic nature of the building, given its central location in Ostuni - known as La Città Bianca (The White City) because of the tradition of whitewashing buildings every year. The generous garden creates an oasis of serenity among the bustle of the old town’s cobbled streets Lounging by the 15m pool, or in the shade of an orange tree, it’s hard to believe the heart of the old citadel is just the other side of the garden’s sun-baked stone wall.

It’s a different story at Restaurant 700, which is open to both guests and the general public. Chef Giacomo Simone’s contemporary, creative dishes have created a buzz – his Sundaybrunches have something of a cult following. Drawing inspiration from the wealth of produce just outside the city, there are bright bowls of olive oil, beautiful local breads and nods to regional delicacies like burrata, orecchiette and tiella (Italian-style paella). There’s an enticing array of fruit-forward, full-bodied wines from Puglia too. After, at the atmospheric Lounge Bar, candlelight throws shadows across the muted-tone walls and the past slowly merges with the present – until it feels as if you’re existing in an Italian Old Master.

Doubles from £225.

Words by Rachel Walker.

This review was taken from the April 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.