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The words ‘luxury hotel’ evoke thoughts of great comfort and elegance, with the certainty of delicious food. Phāea ticks all these boxes – and then some. Its bungalows and suites of natural stone and wood surround a secluded bay on Crete’s north-eastern coast. From your terrace, watch the sun rise behind the tiny, historic islet of Spinalonga in the centre of the bay and, come night, gaze on stars glittering in the clear sky. Stunning scenery surrounds this peaceful, family-run hotel – many of the 46 rooms
have their own pool, and the attractive pebble beach is a walk
or buggy-ride downhill through lush, landscaped gardens.
Luxury here also means high- quality, local food and wine, and Crete’s internationally renowned olive oils, honeys, sheep’s-milk cheeses and wines are cherished by island-born executive chef Giannis Kallivretakis. He credits his mother for his extensive culinary knowledge and skills, and his heritage for one of Crete’s finest gastronomic practices, xenia, or welcoming to the table family, friend and stranger alike. Savour dishes made with seasonal produce from the organic garden, and locally sourced meat and seafood on the handsome terrace of Anthos restaurant. Share two island specialities rarely seen on restaurant tables: gamopilafi, a wedding dish of simmered kid or lamb with rice cooked in its rich broth; and shepherds’ antikristo, well-seasoned lamb roasted on upright frames around an open fire. In beachside Blue Door Taverna, seasonal family-recipe dishes may be grilled aubergines with grape molasses, or pies filled with fresh cheese, spinach and fennel. Take your culinary adventure further by taking part in classes with the chef – introducing you to ingredients seldom found elsewhere – and wine tastings, or take a seat around the communal table in the garden at pop-up restaurant Phāea Farmers Feast.
Doubles from £322, including breakfast.
Words by Rosemary Barron.
This article was taken from the June 2025 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.
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