Reid’s Palace Hotel

Estrada Monumental 139, 9000-098 Funchal, Madeira, Portugal

Celebrating its 120th anniversary this year, Madeira’s only grande dame of a hotel is a haven of tranquillity and relaxed elegance. Perched on a cliff-top above the capital Funchal, the island’s original luxury hotel bagged the best view of the city’s sweeping natural amphitheatre when it opened in 1891. The hotel retains the aura of a bygone era, from the tinkling of piano music that accompanies the traditional afternoon tea to the scent of cigar smoke wafting here and there. That said, the hotel is not stuffy or lacking in modern amenities: there are two beautiful heated outdoor pools on the cliff-top and a purpose-built spa, where massage treatments use local ingredients such as aloe vera, camphor and eucalyptus and herbs from the hotel garden. The hotel restaurants take full advantage of Madeira’s limited but fine selection of local seafood – specialities include black scabbard fish and lapas (limpets) – while 90 per cent of the fruit and vegetables are organically sourced on the island. Madeira’s famous fortified wines appear as ingredients in dishes and cocktails and as apéritifs. The Madeiran table wines are a surprise discovery too. Doubles from €370.