The Frogmill Hotel

Cotswolds, UK

A little gem in the Cotswolds, the Frogmill sits a few kilometres out of Cheltenham, in pretty Shipton Oliffe. There’s been a tavern on this same site for over 500 years, but a couple of years ago Breakspear acquired it and have given the 28-room establishment an impressive makeover. The art-filled bedrooms are stylish and comfortable and there’s a lovely terrace at the front for enjoying a summer-evening pint while drinking in verdant views out over the garden. But it is the food that really impresses.

The dining room is crisscrossed with golden-hued reclaimed oak beams and decorated with mismatched antique furniture – this is a classic country pub as classic country pubs ought to be. The centrepieces of the kitchen are an American smoker and a Spanish Josper coal-fired oven, which reaches a temperature of 400C, and gives a beautifully unpretentious menu its own signature. This is a mecca for meat-lovers – steaks are grilled to perfection in the Josper. Our simple sirloin, served with a mild Béarnaise, some broccoli and crispy shallots, is pretty much perfect. Vegetarians are looked after, too, with the likes of a fresh pea and broad bean risotto or an indulgent ricotta and spinach ravioli. For dessert, we opt for a sticky tart that balances spicy treacle, a simple milk ice cream and sharp coulis. It is no easy matter deciding between this and the choux buns, but it doesn’t disappoint. Special mention, too, for the vintage tabletop arcade games upstairs. Get some friends together and see how your old Pac-Man handicap is holding up.

Doubles from £90. thefrogmill.co.uk

Words by Mike Shallcross