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Once largely uninhabited except for a handful of fishing families, traders and the odd pirate, Koh Chang – sitting just off Thailand’s Trat province – hit its stride in the 20th century as an off-the-beaten-track paradise. The 1980s brought national park status and since then, despite resorts cropping up along the westerly coast, Koh Chang has retained all of its natural charm. Now synonymous with captivating landscapes and a mellow way of life, nowhere on the island does it quite like aptly named The Retreat.
Equidistant from the cascading Khlong Phlu Waterfall, the once sleepy fishing village of Bang Bao and pristine Kai Bae Beach, 38-room The Retreat offers exactly what it says on the tin. The aesthetic credos kanso (simplicity) and shizen (naturalness) are evident throughout, whether you opt for a swim-up room, ocean view suite or duplex villa, each individually decorated with natural materials, print-pressed artwork from local creatives and antique teak furniture: a masterclass in cultural homage.
On a stone jetty jutting out into the Gulf of Thailand, bottomless – but not buffet – breakfast awaits at The Ocean Terrace, the all-day culinary heart of the resort. After your fill of international fare made with local ingredients, wander through palm-lined gardens and into the basement spa for a Thai massage or volcanic sand bath.
While slowing down comes naturally here, it’s worth wrenching yourself away for the complimentary paddle-boarding, boating, scuba diving and bike rental service. Venture south to explore the stilted houses and markets of Bang Bao, or east on an elevated walkway above the mangroves at Salak Phet. Head right to the heart of the island to traverse the jewelled ridges of tallest peak Khao Salak Phet, or even take a guided rainforest trek in a quest for gibbons.
Words by Caitlin Horlock.
Doubles from £225, including breakfast. +66 39 619419, theretreatkohchang.com
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