The Star Inn Hotel

Harome, nr Helmsley North Yorkshire

We’ve been big fans of Andrew Pern’s cooking for some time (he was our ‘seasonal chef’ last July) and we’re clearly not alone. Pern’s now signature plate of black pudding, foie gras, apple and vanilla chutney with a scrumpy reduction is the stuff of gastronomic legend and typifies his style – northern roots, bold flavours and more than a little panache. If this is modern Yorkshire cooking, then let’s hope it spreads. Doubles from £190.