The Swan Inn, Fittleworth Hotel

The village of Fittleworth, folded into the soft rise and fall of the South Downs in West Sussex, is so exquisitely preserved that the idea of refurbishing its 14th-century coaching inn feels almost heretical. It would be all too easy to upset the balance and lose the old-world character of the place. But Angus Davies, formerly of Chez Bruce and Lorne, has carried it off with polish and restraint. Turner painted the mill just down the road and lodged here, as did Emmeline Pankhurst and Rudyard Kipling, and today the 12 rooms remain grounded in heritage. Verden toiletries, Robert Kime wools and linens, and roll-top baths will soothe even the weariest traveller. The restaurant leans into rib of beef, perhaps, or a chicken and- ham suet-crust pie – before encouraging you back outdoors.With a boot room stocked with wellies, waterproofs and trail maps, it’s hard to resist the pull of the Downs just beyond the door.

Words by Rod Mackenzie. Doubles from £195, 01798 697030, swaninnfittleworth.com