The Vices Hotel

York, England

Skirting the edge of York’s city centre, entering The Vices feels more gallery than hotel. Previously a Victorian police station and then a 14-bedroom hotel, co-owners Daniel Curro and Moreno Carbone spent four years renovating and the result is a design-forward, contemporary house-hotel in a class of its own, with playful art pieces and three striking suites. ‘It’s easier to tell you what’s not Italian rather than what is,’ says Daniel, referring to the statement wooden flooring and marble surfaces.

At dinner time, ‘to open or not’ is the question. A wax-sealed envelope containing the night’s tasting menu awaits in the dimly lit restaurant, Allium. For those who can contain their curiosity, the open kitchen (formerly the cells) offers a glimpse of the six-courses to come, each carefully paired with an Italian wine by Daniel. Chef Luke Sanderson’s dishes are wonderfully balanced and creative: Shetland mussels with baby leek confit and rose petal vinegar, Yorkshire partridge with poached blackberries, while burnt onion – Luke’s signature dish – with its rich, flavoursome broth is a standout.

For breakfast, fuel up on a spread of fruit, fresh pastries and sourdough, then pick up a bottle or two of wine from The Vices’ Archive – a perfect souvenir for any sin-filled weekend.

Doubles from £400. 01904 373137, thevices.co.uk

Words by Megan Dickson.

This review was taken from the Reader Awards issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.