The Walnut Tree Inn Hotel

Monmouthshire

The Welsh Borders is good for a visit at any time of the year, whether it’s for bracing winter walks through the peaks of the Brecon Beacons or summer bikes and hikes along the canals and rivers, or to Abergavenny for autumn’s food festival, which is bucket-list territory for every food lover.

When talking of Abergavenny, of course, Shaun Hill springs to mind – his name being synonymous with this part of the Monmouthshire food landscape. Known as the ‘chef’s chef’ – he’s inspired the likes of Tom Kerridge – he now has over 50 years’ cheffing under his belt, 14 of them at The Walnut Tree. There, he’s earned plaudits and a Michelin star with twists on classics that favour flavour over fuss. Big on produce, he gets the best from the county, and goes beyond when needed – French cheeses, for instance – and this game season is the perfect time to go. That said, if crispy veal sweetbreads with bath chaps (lower part of the pig’s cheeks) and watercress is on the menu, go for that! Located in the village of Llanddewi Skirrid, with the rolling Welsh hills all around and Abergavenny just down the road, a stroll through the garden of The Walnut Tree takes you to two cottages. Both sleep four, with all the creature comforts you could want for a gourmet getaway.

Cottages from £379. 01873 737084, thewalnuttreeinn.com

Words by Alex Mead.

This review was taken from the October 2022 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.