Tri Lanka, Sri Lanka Hotel

Sri Lanka

Turning off the main road to wiggle down to a track to Tri Lanka, the cinnamon wood-clad water tower offers a first glimpse of the 2.5ha estate nestled into an inlet on the eastern bank of Koggala Lake. It’s fitting that a hotel that focuses on natural materials – mango, teak and kumbuk are also used throughout – should blend so well into the exquisite surroundings.

A clever conversion means the lofty height of the water tower, which perches atop a small hillock, ensures guest rooms promise lakeside views. Yet it’s the buildings set into the bank that offer a ringside view of the action. There, five panoramic glass-fronted Lake Villas bring a cinematic quality to watching life on the lake unfold – whether it be the 50-plus bird species or dhoni boats chugging between islets.

Central to the main building is a 21m pool, cantilevered so the infinity edge melds into the deep

blue lake, and then the vast blue sky. Winding concrete corridors lead guests into the dining room built below. There’s a bunker-like quality to it – albeit an architecturally stunning one. The sense of secrecy is well placed, as food is hardly mentioned in the hotel marketing: thus, it’s an unexpected highlight. Thalis come with five curries, mallum vegetables, coconut sambol, chutneys, papadam and rice. There are crab cakes with kohlrabi slaw and spiced mayonnaise; baked Koggala Lake shrimps with tamarind; chilled watermelon and fenugreek soup with crispy hoppers; and sweet-spiced watalappan custard to finish.

It’s easy to pass time pottering in the library, dabbling in quantum yoga or exploring the mangroves around the impeccably maintained lake, which remains one of southern Sri Lanka’s best-kept secrets.

Doubled from £135.

Words by Rachel Walker.

This article was taken from the December 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.