Viceroy Bali Hotel

Bali, Indonesia

Seeming to float above Bali’s nature-filled Valley of the Kings, the sights, sounds and tastes of Indonesia unfold before your feet – all part of the palatial experience at this one off, away-from-it-all residence

Lining Ubud’s jungle-clad Petanu Valley – one of two vertiginous rifts that frame the
Island of the Gods’ foremost inner sanctum – family-run Viceroy Bali has wow-factor in spades. Flanked by rice paddies and away from the bustle of Ubud’s markets, puppet shows and coffee houses – but within striking distance for pootles, of course – the ravine’s moniker, the Valley of the Kings, speaks to its past as the palatial home of Balinese aristocracy.

And this sprawling estate pays due homage: from the intricate stone carvings and exotic gardens to first-class service and a fresh, airy, colonial-style dining room with well stocked cellar, it’s a refined affair. And that’s before you get to the 40 suites and thatched-roof villas carved into the side of the gorge in a gravity-defying feat of modern yet heritage architecture – some with curvaceous infinity pools seeming to trip into the void beyond, others with perching bales. Sliding doors bring the scent of frangipane and echoing birdsong bouncing off the ravine and indoor-outdoor living is key to the
design of spacious marble-floored suites with plenty of lounging areas.

You could easily laze villa-side for the day, but the large palm-draped infinity pool with swim-up bar awaits with standout valley views . There’s also the oasis-like Akoya spa, which majors in both traditional Balinese wellness techniques and supermodern IV therapies. And for more active days, the hotel can organise anything from morning treks to Mount Batur and paddy walks, cooking classes and adventurous whitewater rafting and helicopter tours over Bedugul Lake or Uluwatu’s dramatic coast line. One particularly
lovely activity is a unique opportunity to learn about Balinese offerings, intricately crafted gifts to the gods you’ll see dotted across the island. Follow it with a Balinese dance lesson to the evocative sound of gamelan.

Two restaurants ensure you’re well-fed: award-winning Apéritif is a Twenties-inspired fine diner, serving a multi-course menu accented by lesser-known Indonesian ingredients,
while CasCades is a relaxed space for modern Balinese. And don’t miss a chance to try Room4Dessert nearby, by innovative chef Will Goldfarb. Whatever the rhythm of your trip, it’s guaranteed to live long in the memory.

Doubles from £320. 00 62 361 971 777, viceroybali.com

Words by Blossom Green.

This review was taken from the August/September 2023 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.