As ski season returns, Louise Cameron-Hall highlights enchanting satellite ski villages that capture the timeless magic of the mountains – without the crowds or hype of their bigger, more famous neighbours
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Header image credit by Shutterstock; Martin Erdniss
Why here Samoëns blends the feel of an authentic Savoyard farming village with the scale and convenience of a major ski domain, creating a balance between tradition and top-flight skiing. Unlike purpose-built resorts, Samoëns is a genuine year-round community where stone houses, narrow lanes and old workshops revolve around a historic square dominated by a 13th-century church and the famous Gros Tilleul (large lime tree) planted in 1438. A cluster of family-run patisseries, cheesemakers and boutiques adds to the village’s lived-in character. Despite the timeless charm, the skiing is thoroughly modern. Hop aboard the Grand Massif Express gondola, which reaches the ski area in around ten minutes and whisks you straight into the 265km Grand Massif network.
Don’t miss the 14km Cascade blue run, from Flaine to Sixt, offering mesmerising big-mountain valley views. Alpine dining Expect a homely welcome at Restaurant l’Étable (536 Route de Lachat), a rustic mountain-refuge-style spot with pine-clad walls, red-checked tablecloths, a roaring open fire and traditional farm-to-fork Savoyard cuisine. Tuck into hearty classics such as soupe châtrée, made with potatoes, onions and bacon, or a rich croziflette – a local twist on the traditional tartiflette.
Cosy stay The sleek, chalet-style Hôtel Alexane offers apartment-style accommodation alongside a spa, hammam, pool and private shuttle to the gondola. Doubles from £134. mgm-hotels-residences.com
Photography by Christian Martelet
Why here Far from Austria’s mega-resort hubs, Maria Alm is a serene gem in the SalzburgerLand 120km Hochkönig Ski Amadé circuit that links the villages of Maria Alm, Dienten and Mühlbach, rivalling the better-known Austrian ski resorts of Mayrhofen and Kitzbühel. A pretty, traditional resort of church spires and timber chalets, with a name whispered by only a smattering of British skiers, this enchanting village delivers first-rate skiing with glorious powder bowls, fewer crowds and famously well-groomed slopes. Expect a strong gastronomic scene, along with a warm local village welcome and seasonal activities like sleigh rides. The ski area caters to all levels, from wide beginner pistes that wind gently through snow-dusted forests, to challenging reds and blacks that climb high into the Hochkönig massif. Off-piste enthusiasts will find untouched powder and open bowls, often with hardly another soul in sight. Certified ski and mountain guides can be booked through the local ski schools or the Hochkönig mountain guide office, ensuring you explore the backcountry safely and in the best possible conditions.
Alpine dining Perched at 1,634m, the setting at Steinbock Alm almost takes precedence over its menu of Austrian classics. There are plenty of vegetarian options, alongside hearty favourites such as schweinsbraten (slow-roasted pork shoulder) and Wiener schnitzel. Lunch only. steinbockalm.at
Cosy stay Stay in the colourful central square at boutique Hotel Eder for its lively après-ski scene, fine dining and rooftop infinity pool. Doubles from £235. hoteleder.com
Photography by Shutterstock; Martin Erdniss
Why here Wild and almost mythical, ‘Austria’s Chamonix’ is the gateway to Heiligenblut-Grossglockner ski resort and the 3,798m Grossglockner Mountain, Austria’s tallest, in the Unesco-listed Hohe Tauern National Park. This serene and nationally revered mountaineering village goes largely under the radar of British skiers yet offers 55km of uncrowded pistes, extensive lift-access, free-ride terrain and avalanche-secure marked off-piste runs. A pilgrimage village, Heiligenblut (meaning ‘holy blood’) is named after the legend that a phial of Christ’s blood is housed in St Vincent Church. The village itself is a picture of Alpine charm, with steep-roofed chalets, cobbled streets and dramatic mountain views at every turn. Visitors enjoy a genuine sense of tranquillity, interrupted only by the whoosh of skiers carving the quiet slopes or the distant ringing of church bells. Beyond the pistes, the surrounding Hohe Tauern National Park offers opportunities for snowshoeing, winter hiking and even glacier sightseeing, making Heiligenblut a hub for every type of snowy pursuit.
Alpine dining Skihütte Fleissalm (Fleiss 18, Heiligenblut), reached by cable car and ski lift, is nestled in the Fleissalm ski area. With panoramic views of the Grossglockner and surrounding peaks, the family-run restaurant serves lunches of steaming bowls of goulash and venison stews beside an old wood burner or on the terrace.
Cosy stay Four-star Nationalpark Lodge Grossglockner sits right across the cobbled central square from the lift station, next to St Vincent Church. It comes with an indoor–outdoor pool and Pasterze glacier views. Doubles from £174. nationalparklodge.at
Why here Champoluc, sitting at 1,560m, lies within the Ayas commune of the Monterosa ski area in Italy’s upper Aosta Valley. Here, laid-back charm meets genuine big-mountain skiing,offering an atmosphere that feels more like a peaceful village than a busy resort. Traditional stone-and-wood houses sit againstdramatic peaks – perfect for skiers who prefer authenticity toaprès fanfare. From this understated base, you gain access to thevast Monterosa Ski area, a 180km network of pistes that links the Ayas, Gressoney and Valsesia valleys – a domain with a reputation as one of Europe’s great ’hidden’ ski regions: expansive, scenic and usually uncrowded. The eight-person, valley-to-mountain gondola lifts you from 1,570m to almost 3,300m, opening up a panorama of glaciers, serrated peaks and wide-open snowfields.
Alpine dining Family-run Baita Belvedere refuge sits directly on the Champoluc slopes, reached on skis from Champoluc-Crest cable car. The polenta with venison stew and homemade tagliatelle are popular, as are the boot warmers. Open Thursday-Sunday(reservation only on Thursday). rifugiobelvedere.com
Cosy stay The four-star Hotel Relais des Glaciers lies in the heart of Champoluc. This chocolate-box, chalet-style hotel and spafeatures newly renovated contemporary-alpine interiors and an elegant lounge bar. Doubles from £175. hotelrelaisdesglaciers.com
Photography by Unsplash; Gleb Makarov
Why here Around this high-altitude village (at around 2,100m) in the Swiss canton of Valais, panoramic slopes overlooking the Great Aletsch glacier and towering Dufourspitze, Matterhorn and Weisshorn peaks cater to all ski abilities. Within the 56km of slopes making up the Blatten-Belalp ski area, which goes up to 3,118m in altitude, advanced skiers can take on several black runs from the famous Hohstock lift, along with the unique-to- Switzerland 150m Hohstock tunnel leading you through the mountain massif. Belalp is a part of the Unesco World Heritage Aletsch-Jungfrau Alpine area. A car-free village, this scenic spot is accessed by cable car from Blatten bei Naters.
Alpine dining The aptly named Panorama restaurant commands views over the surrounding mountains, from the Great Aletsch glacier to Matterhorn, through floor-to-ceiling glass walls and out on the expansive sun terrace. Regional specialities, including fondue, highlight the ingredients of local suppliers and they’re paired with good Swiss wines. hotel-belalp.ch
Cosy stay Ski-in, ski-out Hamilton Lodge is perched on the slope-side, right by the ski lifts. Here, cosy rooms join a traditional log-cabin-style restaurant and a wellness area with glacier-water pools and a sauna. Massage therapists are on hand to help you unwind after a day’s skiing. Doubles from £189. hamiltonlodge.ch
Photography by Unsplash; Gleb Makarov
Why here While crowds rush to Courchevel and Méribel, Orelle remains an affordable, lesser-known back door into Val Thorens and the vast, 600km Les 3 Vallées. Nestled in the Maurienne valley, bordering the Tarentaise, its high-capacity gondola takes skiers to 3,230m in 13 minutes, linking directly into Europe’s largest ski network. The Orelle-Val Thorens ski sector alone boasts 150km of slopes mostly above 2,000m for high-altitude skiing. Less a village, more a necklace of ten hamlets, it offers a slice of authentic, old Savoie life and a welcoming, community feel, with local cafés, bakeries and small restaurants serving traditional Savoyard fare. Off the main pistes, skiers and snowboarders can explore quieter, wide-open runs, powder and varied terrain perfect for all abilities. Evenings in Orelle are relaxed and low-key, making it an ideal base for those who want to combine world-class skiing with the unhurried charm of a peaceful Alpine retreat.
Alpine dining The slope-side Chalet Chinal Donat restaurant, in the Plan Bouchet area, is a cosy Alpine retreat where skiers can enjoy moderately priced dishes such as tartiflette, local charcuterie and rich mountain cheeses (lunch only). +33 4 7956 5301
Cosy stay The contemporary Hob Orelle Hotel has easy access to the ski lift and features a coffee shop, cocktail bar with terrace and restaurant serving Savoyard cuisine. Request a room with balcony overlooking the valley. Doubles from £115. evihob.com
Photography by Paul Besson
Why here Affordable flights and luxury openings are transforming Romania’s flagship ski resort into an emerging international weekend ski destination that can compete with those nearer home. Just outside medieval Brașov – famed for its narrow, colourful streets and the iconic Black Church – Poiana Brașov sits within the Carpathian Mountains’ Postăvarul Massif, offering a surprisingly diverse ski experience. The resort has 25km of marked slopes across 12 runs, ranging from gentle beginner greens to challenging black pistes, all reaching up to 1,800m. Highlights include the Sulinar red run, ideal for cruising and building confidence; the Lupului black run, a steep, adrenalinepumping descent; and Romania’s longest slope, Drumul Roșu, which winds for over 4km with a good variety of terrain. Snowboarders and freestyle skiers will enjoy the lively terrain park, while off-piste enthusiasts can explore ungroomed powder on adjacent slopes.
Alpine dining Once a mountain meadow sheepfold hut, now a slope-side restaurant, Stana Turistica serves hearty Transylvanian- Mediterranean dishes such as wild mushroom stew and borscht with lamb, amid sheepskin-draped benches. sergiana.ro
Cosy stay The Swissôtel Poiana Brașov offers a modern-Alpine luxury stay complete with pool, ski-in access and a restaurant offering Mediterranean-inspired dishes showcasing Transylvanian produce. Doubles from £129. swissotel-poianabrasov.ro
Photography by Shutterstock; Balate.Dorin
Why here At an altitude of 1,500m, above the Rhône Valley in Valais, La Tzoumaz, seamlessly loops into the snow-sure Les Quatre Vallées, Switzerland’s largest ski area, with 410km of slopes. Despite this scale, it remains a peaceful and charming alternative to the nearby, glitzy resort of Verbier, offering access to the same world-class terrain at a fraction of the price. The village itself is a picture of traditional Valais life, with wooden chalets, quiet streets and stunning views down the valley, making it feel more like a true Alpine hideaway than a busy tourist hub. It also offers snowshoeing trails, toboggan runs and an open-air ice rink. The gondola whisks skiers effortlessly to Savoleyres and onward to Mont Fort, which rises to a lofty 3,330m. From here, panoramicmountain-top vistas stretch across the Swiss Alps, while the slopes provide everything from long-cruising reds and wide blue runs to the challenges of The Wall and nearby zipline thrills.
Alpine dining A local family inn with valley views, Auberge La Tzoumaz has been awarded the Saveurs du Valais label forserving farm-to-fork local specialities such as Alpine cheese, house-made terrines and seasonal game. aubergelatzoumaz.com
Cosy stay Papill’on boutique hotel encompasses nine stylishrooms and an inventive bistro and is just a short stroll from the ski lift. Doubles from £170. papillon-latzoumaz.ch
Photography by Verbier 4Vallées
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