British seaside escapes
Pay a visit to the coastal areas of the British Isles this summer and you’ll be delighted with what you can find so close to home, as Debbie Taylor discovers.
Pay a visit to the coastal areas of the British Isles this summer and you’ll be delighted with what you can find so close to home, as Debbie Taylor discovers.
Rocky brown cliffs; sweet shops seemingly preserved in aspic; cobbled streets snaking through town towards a watercolour harbour: Whitby offers the old-fashioned British seaside holiday on a plate – with a side-order of cockles, of course.
The parish is a postcard-perfect backdrop for exploring rock pools, building sandcastles and paddling in the North Sea. Overlooking Robin Hood’s Bay is Bay View, a stables conversion with incredible coast and countryside views. From its open-plan layout and local artworks to wood-burning stove and and mezzanine area for sleeping, the place epitomises relaxation.
A stroll down to Robin Hood’s Bay village is a must. The steep road runs down to the shore; a pub is located conveniently at the end if you’ve worked up a thirst. Away from the coast, take to the mile-long Roman road (which dates back to AD 1) or poke around the ruins of 13th-century Whitby Abbey: perched forebodingly on a cliff top above the town, it exudes Gothic splendour, especially in its decaying state.
The 200 steps leading to and from the abbey allow you to whet your appetite for Greens (greensofwhitby.com), a restaurant and bistro near the harbour. If you’re up early, you might see chef Rob Green at the docks, cherry-picking from the day’s catch. His six-course tasting menu is a highlight of Whitby’s cuisine. For more casual eating, head to Fusco’s Royal Fisheries (fuscowhitby.com) and add a vinegar tang to the salty air with fish and crinkle-cut chips wrapped in newspaper. Also, take home a tasty souvenir in the form of kipper from Fortune’s (fortuneskippers.co.uk), a tiny smokehouse and shop to the east of the town. The Fortunes have been smoking fish for 139 years; try one of their kippers and you’ll understand how they’ve managed to stay in business so long.
Cornwall is synonymous with seaside holidays – and with good reason. The county has much to offer getaway-seekers, from quaint ports and sleepy fishing villages to surfing havens and golden sandy beaches, not to mention superb seafood.
On the often overlooked southeastern stretch of the county in sweeping Whitsand Bay, you’ll find the Beach House, set back from a small harbour, overlooking the bay and facing towards the Rame Peninsula. Inspired by Balinese dwellings, it nonetheless looks and feels indigenous to its surroundings: extra-high ceilings and huge sash windows make the space light and airy. Sitting somewhere between rustic and contemporary, its handmade furniture, outdoor hot tub and techy gadgets contrast with its recycled stone cladding derived from rocks excavated during the property’s construction.
The area has much to offer visitors in the name of eco-friendly attractions: the Eden Project is a short drive from Whitsand Bay, as are the Lost Gardens of Heligan and the Monkey Sanctuary. Closer still is local village Portwrinkle, very close to the start of the South Cornwall section of the 154-mile-long South West Coastal Path, across white cliffs and through emerald cowfields. Local restaurant The View (theview-restaurant.co.uk) can be found perched high on the cliffs of Whitsand Bay, overlooking the waters that provide its bounty of ingredients – try Whitsand plaice, razor clams with lemon and garlic or sea bass with salsify.
If you’re inspired to try and recreate some of the dishes yourself while you’re staying in the area, place an order at RG Seafoods in nearby Torpoint: they deliver to the Whitsand Bay area.
Some waterfront properties take things a step further, and O’Sullivan House has terraces literally hanging over the mouth of the Kingsbridge estuary. Forming part of the sea wall on the Salcombe bank of the Ria View and offering panoramic views of the beaches and bays on the opposite bank, there’s even a small glass-bottomed floor partition allowing you to see the water flowing beneath your feet. Below the house, there’s direct access (via steps at low tide) to your own foreshore and two moorings for personal use; boats can be hired locally.
Salcombe is perfectly placed for glorious summer holidays straight out of an Enid Blyton book, with hidden creeks, golden bays and winding clifftop walks. Apart from the compulsory beach pursuits, there’s plenty to keep you occupied: you could try learning to sail, hiring a dinghy or going scuba diving (land lovers can go horse riding, fishing and walking). The nearby South Devon Chilli Farm, where more than 100 varieties of chillies are grown, is a must if you like your food with a kick. If you’re hankering for something cooler, stop off at Salcombe Dairy (salcombedairy.co.uk) for a few generous scoops of their Devonshire cream ice cream. Right on Salcombe’s North Sands beach, The Winking Prawn (winkingprawn.co.uk) dishes up a summer barbecue menu including king prawns and peppered mackerel, while at Dick and Wills (dickandwills.co.uk), indulge yourself with a Devonshire fillet steak burger with toasted brioche and duck liver parfait, vodka-battered fillet of local ling or Salcombe crab thermidor.
It may have once been a fishing village, but Whitstable now flourishes as a bohemian hotspot, with galleries sandwiched between boutiques and bric-a-brac shops. The aptly named Artists’ Beach House is often used as a studio by writers, photographers and filmmakers – unsurprisingly, given that the 180-degree views of Tankerton beach from its wraparound deck could inspire even the least creative minds. Should you be struck with the urge to paint, a plethora of art books and an easel are on hand to help you make the most of the moment.
Whitstable is probably best known for its oysters, still harvested from the shoreline as they have been for centuries. Nip into the local museum for a history lesson on the town and then head down to the harbour to taste why the seafood has made the place so famous.
Local fishermen fill quayside stalls with their daily offerings of shellfish and wet fish – pick up some fresh pollack or sea bass to fry back at your home-from-home. The 14-seat Wheelers Oyster Bar (whitstable-shellfish.co.uk) on the High Street has been serving fishy delights for 150 years – go for the full feast and take your pick of seaside classics such as bowls of eels, king prawns with mayonnaise, smoked mackerel or rollmops. For afters, choose from Kent’s wide range of artisan cheeses at The Cheese Box (thecheesebox.co.uk): Winterdale Shaw, the county’s take on cheddar, and the buttery Bows Brie will be a welcome addition to any cheese board. If you can’t wait to get your purchase home, you can tuck in at their on-site wine bar.
Situated on the dramatic Northumberland coast, the Beadnell area offers something unexpected: a modern beach house that would look very much at home on the south coast. Beadnell Beach House is where epic coastal views and the sound of waves crashing on the sand meet contemporary chic; the result is a simple yet stylish beach retreat with a real sense of individuality. Floor-to-ceiling windows, first-floor balcony, patio area and steps leading right to the beach maximise the feeling of the outside world being an extra room of its own.
A short distance from the house, Beadnell Towers (beadnelltowers.co.uk) in the village offers meat and fish dishes; its eclectic menu is always changing, but lamb chops are a popular staple.
In nearby Alnwick county, pick up local fruit and veg at the Saturday market – plus, on the last Friday of every month, there’s a farmers’ market where you can find cheese, home-baked cakes and pies, fudge and ginger wine. The house’s location also offers plenty of opportunities for diving, windsurfing and sailing. Suffice to say you’ll see the area best on foot: the 45-minute walk along the coast from Smugglers Cove to Seahouses is one extended photo opportunity, and when you get there the beach is ideal for rock pooling. The 18th century limekilns at Beadnell’s quiet harbour indicate the place’s long history, while four miles away, on a rocky plateau overlooking the sea, is Bamburgh Castle, the majestic former seat of Northumberland’s kings and one of the largest still-inhabited castles in the country.
Exquisite, deserted island beaches aren’t the sole preserve of the Indian Ocean. Much closer to home, and with all the blissful solitude you could ask for, is the Isle of Harris in Scotland, where the Blue Reef cottages in Scarista redefine the notion of the seaside getaway. Here you’ll find two isolated cottages perched on a cliff top, each facing its own sandy, crescent-shaped beach spot with crashing waves.
Inside the cottages, under-floor heating, Harris Tweed sofas, and whirlpool baths for two are some of the more thoughtful and luxurious touches. The other main attraction is the view; to take it all in, long walks and cycling (mountain bikes are kept in the garage) allow you to do it justice. Further to that, playing golf (the course is just at the end of the garden) and sampling local produce are also fine pastimes here, after which you can simply curl up in front of the fire.
Nearby, Georgian mansion Scarista House (scaristahouse.com) offers the island’s delicious produce – try Harris lobster, Uist peatsmoked scallops or fillet of Stornoway halibut – skillfully cooked and served with home-grown garden vegetables, herbs and salads, not to mention infinite helpings of wildly beautiful ocean vistas.
Back in Saxon times, settlers discovered that the sea at East Preston was an ideal source for farming the salt they needed to preserve their food. Nowadays, of course, the town is more seaside than saltmarsh, although it’s a still a charming place to while away a few lazy days.
Situated on a quiet private road, Preston House is a detached holiday home built in a 1920s Dutch colonial style. The rooms are big and airy with luxurious contemporary furnishings, but the real beauty is outside; a wide expanse of lawned garden leading to a gate that opens directly onto a pretty, shingled beach.
Follow one of the shoreline footpaths that head east and west, or if you’d prefer a larger beach, Worthing, Littlehampton and Bognor Regis are a short drive away. Away from the coast, the village has some great restaurants and pubs. The Ristorante Bellavista serves tasty seafood in a charmingly old-fashioned beachside setting, while the nearby East Beach Café in Littlehampton (eastbeachcafe.co.uk) serves brilliantly simple seaside food (try the sublime mussel and salmon chowder). Close by is Arundel, with its impressive Norman castle, and Chichester with its soaring cathedral and smart marina.
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