There is still a clutch of European islands that remains refreshingly untouched by mass tourism. For thosecraving calm seas and a crowd-free summer, Steven Short charts where to head and what to expect
This article was taken from the July 2025 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.
On the map Accessible by ferry from Geyikli or Çanakkale, Bozcaada is in the northernmost part of the Aegean Sea. The closest major airport is Çanakkale – fly from London, Manchester or Bristol to Istanbul and take a connecting flight.
Why visit? Bozcaada was name-checked in Homer’s The Iliad and today’s visitors will find an interesting blend of Turkish and Greek influences in its architecture, narrow cobbled streets and churches that sit happy alongside equally photogenic mosques. Bozcaada Castle is one of the best preserved, and largest, in Türkiye and offers an insight into the island’s history – Venetians, Genoese and Ottomans all play a part in Bozcaada’s story. Away from town, beaches are pleasantly uncrowded: Ayazma Beach is perhaps the most famous, with soft sand and shallow, clear waters. Ask a local the one thing you should do during your visit and they’ll direct you to Polente Lighthouse to watch the stunning sunset.
Island flavours Winemaking has been going on here for centuries, so be sure to sample local varieties such as Karalahna and Kuntra. Seafood and meze platters are menu staples, as are badem kurabiyesi (almond cookies).
Sleep well The family-friendly Oikos Bozcaada garners praisefrom visitors for its clean, comfortable rooms and welcoming service. The hotel is within easy walking distance of Bozcaadacity centre and has a pretty garden where breakfast is served. Doubles from £112.
On the map Located 33km south of Cape Circeo in the Tyrrhenian Sea, Ponza is the largest island in the Pontine archipelago. There is no airport on the island, so fly to Naples and take a ferry or hydrofoil. Alternatively, fly to Rome and take a train – just over an hour – to Formia for a connecting ferry.
Why visit? Capri without the crowds, anyone? Like its Amalfi Coast counterpart, Ponza has inviting clear waters of turquoise and deep cobalt as well as pretty pebble beaches and little bays accessible only by boat. It’s the best way to explore Ponza’s coastline anyway – rent a boat or join an organised tour to see sea caves and tiny coves as well as the famous Grotte di Pilato, dug-out tunnels and pools that date back to Roman times. The unspoilt neighbouring island of Palmarola is also easily reached by boat. Back on land, Ponza Town has little piazzas to wander as well as narrow alleyways lined with pastel-coloured buildings.
Island flavours Expect seafront trattorias and bars serving catch of the day: spaghetti ai ricci di mare (pasta with sea urchin), perhaps, or grilled fish or octopus. There are even two Michelinrated restaurants here, both specialising in seafood: Eea and Acqua Pazza, which boasts a star.
Sleep well Just 80m from the popular Chiaia de Luna beach, Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla has a variety of rooms, some with terraces and sea views. The hotel also has two sea-water pools. Doubles from £97.
On the map Lošinj can be found in Croatia’s Kvarner Gulf. Although it has a private airport for those arriving by private jet, the rest of us have to reach it by flying into either Rijeka or Krk and then catching a ferry or catamaran.
Why visit? The lack of an international airport means Lošinj has remained a genuine hidden gem, off the tourist trail, although it has been a popular wellness destination since the early 19th century, initially among European aristocrats. Known as ‘the island of vitality’, Losinj boasts crystal-clear waters that make for perfect swimming and snorkelling and it’s home to bottlenose dolphins – take a boat tour to get up close and personal with them. Choose one organised by the Blue World Institute and as well as learning all about the life of dolphins, you’ll get an insight into the institute’s conservation work. For an Instagram fix, visit pretty towns like Mali Lošinj and Veli Lošinj, with their narrow alleys and pastel-painted houses, which are nowhere near as busy as Croatia’s better known hotspots like Dubrovnik or Hvar.
Island flavours Thanks to those crystal waters, fresh fish is big here – sea bass, bream and scorpionfish appear on many menus. Brodet is a local fish stew, usually served with polenta, but if meat dishes are your thing, lamb is also a speciality and Dalmatian prosciutto – pršut – is a mainstay.
Sleep well Dolphin Suites Croatia, in the picturesque fishing town of Veli Lošinj, has a range of light and airy deluxe rooms and suites, a swimming pool, cocktail bar and a yoga pavilion. Doubles from £125 (over-14s only).
On the map This butterfly-shaped island – one of the Dodecanese – is best reached by flying into Kos and taking a two-to-four-hour ferry ride, or into Rhodes for a four-to-six-hour crossing. There is also the option for slower travel or tying it in with a trip to mainland Greece, with ferries leaving from Piraeus Port in Athens, which can take up to 20 hours.
Why visit? Unlike some other Greek islands, you won’t be disturbed by huge cruise liners or throngs of day-trippers; instead, Astypalea is pleasantly laidback and unbusy. What you will find are quiet villages with narrow, winding streets and whitewashed houses with blue domes and shutters and bougainvillea wherever you look. The main town, Chora, also known as Astypalea Town, sits on a hill with the historic Venetian Querini Castle at its summit – try to be here at sunset to enjoy the spectacular views out to sea. Some of the island’s best beaches, including Vatses and Agios Konstantinos, are only accessible by boat, giving a castaway feel to your visit. The island is also championing sustainable travel with a major shift toward EVs and solar energy.
Island flavours As you’d expect, the tavernas here – many of them family-run – serve up authentic Greek cooking using local, seasonal ingredients. Lamb with lemon and oregano, for example, or octopus stewed in wine. Don’t forget to try chlori, a fresh local cheese served with honey.
Sleep well Located 100m from the island’s central square,the family-run Tholaria Boutique Hotel has stylish white rooms and suites with terraces and postcard-perfect views. Doubles from £114, including breakfast.
On the map This tidal island, part of the Vendée region, is situated in the Bay of Biscay off the west coast of France. It is easily reached year-round by a bridge that connects it to the port of Fromentine on the mainland, and there’s also a road, Le Passage du Gois, that’s accessible at low tide. The nearest airport is Nantes, from where you can continue by car or daily coach.
Why visit? With 40km of fine sandy beaches, Noirmoutier is a great choice for fans of sailing, surfing, kitesurfing and jet skiing. The island is also famous for its salt marshes (fleur de sel is still harvested by hand here) and wetlands, home to egrets and herons. Because it’s flat, it’s easy to explore on two wheels – extensive cycling trails are well marked. Step back in time in the cobbled streets of the island’s historical capital, Noirmoutier-enl’Île; it’s home to Saint Philbert Church, a former Benedictine abbey founded in the 7th century, as well as a 9th-century château. There’s a bustling harbour here, which gives the island a Riviera feel, albeit far less commercial.
Island flavours Seafood is big on Noirmoutier. Oysters are served ultra-fresh with lemon or mignonette sauce, or tuck into a bowl of mussels served à la crème or as mouclade (in a spiced-cream sauce). The island is famous for its Noirmoutier Bonnotte potatoes – small new potatoes with a slightly salty taste thanks to the island’s sea-sprayed soil. Be sure to buy some fleur de sel to bring back with you – it’s said to be the best in France.
Sleep well Hôtel Fleur de Sel is minutes from Noirmoutier-en-l’Île but feels pleasantly secluded. There’s a sunny terrace that overlooks the garden and a heated outdoor pool. Doubles from £103, including breakfast.
On the map Alderney is the northernmost and third biggest inhabited Channel Island, lying above Guernsey and to the west of Normandy’s Cherbourg-en-Cotenin. Despite being just 5km long and 2.4km wide, it has its own airport, with direct flights from Guernsey and Southampton. You can also reach Alderney – weather permitting – by ferry from Guernsey.
Why visit? Thanks to being the least developed of the Channel Islands, Alderney is a nature-lover’s dream with rugged, windswept landscapes: there are dramatic cliffs with coastal paths and golden-sand beaches with rock pools to explore. Birdwatching is big here – the island is home to gannets and puffins, and even has its own puffin cam (March-July). Keep an eye out for its unique blonde hedgehogs too, seen foraging in hedgerows after sunset. There’s plenty of history to discover, including bunkers and tunnels from World War II when the island was occupied by the Nazis. And, for those interested in ancient ruins, The Roman Fort is said to be the best preserved small Roman fort in Britain.
Island flavours As you’d expect, seafood is prominent on menus across Alderney. Crab, lobster, scallops and mussels are all staples. You can taste the island’s proximity to France in dishes such as moules marinières, and duck confit and pâtés, which regularly appear on chalkboards in restaurants and cosy pubs.
Sleep well In the heart of St Anne, Bonjour Guesthouse has a selection of comfortable rooms, including a family one with balcony and panoramic vistas and offers a hearty English breakfast made using locally sourced ingredients. Twins from £96, including breakfast.
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