Retreat to the quiet
Gather your nearest and dearest to enjoy sun, sand and good times in Asia’s best beach villas. Imogen Lepere finds pads where privacy is guaranteed
Gather your nearest and dearest to enjoy sun, sand and good times in Asia’s best beach villas. Imogen Lepere finds pads where privacy is guaranteed
The third largest island in the world is all but covered with rainforests. With very little infrastructure, its wild interior can be a daunting place to travel, which makes Sabah even more inviting. This pocket-sized region on the island’s northern shore is packed with natural wonders. Watch baby orangutans flex their muscles at Sepilok and spot enormous rafflesia flowers looming over Kinabulu Park. From the coral reefs of the Kota Kinabalu islands to the glorious beaches at the Tip of Borneo, you’ll be able to take in some of the country’s greatest treasures in a short space of time. The area is a Malaysian state and has a wide-ranging food scene. On celebration days order jaruk, wild boar fermented in bamboo with tapai: a pungent rice wine.
One of Indonesia’s last frontiers, this alluring chain of 70 islets floats a little way off the western coast of Sumatra. They were all but cut off from the outside world until the 19th century and the number of endemic species can be compared to Madagascar. Nature lovers will be in paradise. Look out for simpai Mentawai (shaggy black and gold monkeys) and black-bellied squirrels. Deserted beaches come as standard here, so you’re guaranteed utter seclusion, while strong trade winds from the Indian Ocean create some of the most consistent surf on the planet – the archipelago is speckled with surf retreats. On the larger islands, the culture is mainly tribal and the elaborate tattoos, which signify everything from age to status, are fascinating.
Built as an elite holiday destination by French colonists in 1908, Kep was all but forgotten when the Khmer Rouge took over. Only recently has a new wave of wealthy Cambodians started buying up the buildings (including a half-finished palace belonging to the king of Cambodia who abdicated in 2004) and transforming them into luxurious properties. Kep Beach offers lovely swimming, but for a real Robinson Crusoe experience, charter a boat to take your party to Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island). This paradisiacal place is ringed by beaches and shaded by coconut palms with hammocks strung in-between. Back on the mainland, the interior of the Kep peninsula is a national park, where you can hike and spot rare butterflies through the gloom. Kep is famous for the quality of its crab, and these form the basis of most celebratory meals. Simply served with just salt, pepper and a squeeze of lime, they are utterly delicious.
A tropical beauty basking in a blue, blue ocean, this Indonesian island is eye- wateringly good looking. While the bass may blare out over Kuta’s beaches long into the night, look to the quieter coasts for a sense of calmness and creativity. The wild west is the least explored (you’ll still find weekly bull races in the town of Negara which make for an authentic day out), while the east is a land of lush rice paddies and volcanic beaches where stylish properties contrast with traditional villages. Home to the only predominantly Hindu community in Indonesia, spirituality is at the core of local life. On most days you’ll spot a colourful procession wending its way to one of the 10,000 temples which gather on the island’s hills and mountains like gilt-trimmed snowflakes. On big rites of passage such as weddings and funerals, whole villages gather to enjoy babi guling, a suckling swine spit roasted in a pungent paste of shallots, garlic, ginger, turmeric and coriander. Served with fluffy rice and shards of crispy skin, it’s an exotic take on a hog roast, but be sure to let your chef know in advance if you’d like to try it, as it takes more than five hours to cook.
Initially foreigners travelled to Thailand’s biggest island to mine tin, but now they flock in their droves in search of gold. We’re talking golden, sandy beaches of course, and in particular the splendid ones that run along the majority of the island’s west coast. In the Noughties they mainly attracted wide-eyed backpackers, but in recent years the Pearl of the Andaman has gone rather more upmarket. Now it’s awash with seriously desirable real estate and world-class resorts. Despite its popularity, much of the island’s traditional Thai charm remains. Walk through the streets of Phuket Old Town during the shimmering afternoon when most holidaymakers are at the beach and it will be easy to imagine you’re in the 19th century thanks to the pastel-painted Sino Portuguese houses. Back on the west coast, there are so many beaches it’s always possible to find a quiet spot. Try Banana Rock, Mai Khao and Natai. Malays, Chinese, Indians, Thais and ‘sea gypsies’ have all contributed to the culture and the island’s cuisine has a magpie quality to it. Kanom Jin, rice noodles in fiery coconut broth with condiments, is often eaten at celebrations as the noodles symbolise long life.
The least-populated region in the country, this group of over 1,700 islands is the most biodiverse. Underground rivers snake through sea caves before flowing into bays where gentle dugong feed on meadows of seagrass, while peacocks with metallic plumage and more than 600 species of butterfly are among these islands’ kaleidoscope of creatures. The slender mainland stretches 650km, almost to Borneo, and has plenty to offer, including the laid-back towns of El Nido and Coron to the north. However, its limestone cliffs and tropical forests are starting to pull crowds, especially in the dry season (November to May). The best way to appreciate the region’s beauty is by basing yourself on one of the islets that surround it. These flecks of limestone, sand and jungle are home to hideaways ranging from private-island hotels to beach huts. On feast days, food is laid out on a long table, where guests pick from the likes of tamilok (molluscs that live in mangroves, served with lime and vinegar), crispy pata (deep fried pig’s trotters) and shrimp.
Just 2km long by 1km wide, this patch of paradise is the smallest of the three Gili isles. Made up entirely of foliage grazed by cattle and beaches with sand as fine as sieved flour, few destinations offer such a sense of escape. Cars are banned and the only transport is cidomo (horse-drawn carts). Laid-back locals divide their time between playing chess, fishing and hiring dive equipment, which is the island’s main appeal. Ideal for already qualified divers, the Meno Wall extends straight down for 18m and its coral gardens are home to green turtles, porcelain crabs and multi coloured sea slugs.
Nha Trang’s golden sands have been drawing tourists for years, but four hours up the coast, Mui Ne’s 16km of beach remain off developers’ maps. There are no high-rise resorts here. Instead, it attracts well-heeled Vietnamese looking to flee Ho Chi Minh City for the weekend and kite surfers, drawn by the breeze which whistles through the coconut fronds for six months a year. This is a beach destination with plenty to offer active party members. Once they tire of water sports, enormous red and white sand dunes 3km from the beach look stunning and can be explored by foot or on quad bikes.
India’s smallest state is the little black dress of beach destinations – it’s a classic for a reason. A ribbon of sand lapped by the Arabian Sea runs the coastline, while 450 years of Portuguese rule followed by an influx of hippies has created a bohemian culture. Whether you’re looking for seclusion or a degree of privacy plus a town within reach, Goa offers the chance to experience India without the hassle that often comes from the bigger cities. There are still hundreds of clandestine coves and villages waiting to be discovered. Follow the sound of Portuguese fado music to Old Goa to discover intricate baroque cathedrals, or on to Panjim to explore Fontainhas.
Since the civil war ended in 2009, much has been made of the fact that the north and east coasts of Sri Lanka are safe to visit. Call us old-fashioned, but in our opinion the south still holds the most appeal. Miles away from the capital, Colombo, this is rural Sri Lanka at its most traditional. Leopards lollop in the shade at Yala National Park, Sinhalese pilgrims in colourful robes trudge their way to the holy town of Kataragama, while the silhouettes of stilt fisherman can be seen at sunset off Weligama and Mirissa. Galle’s medieval streets offer boutiques and arty cafés, but the real draw is the area’s many beaches and quaint fishing villages, where life potters along as it has done for hundreds of years. On high days and holidays, southern Sri Lankans feast on malu ambul thiyal, a sour tuna curry flavoured with Malabar tamarind and kiribath (sticky coconut rice topped with crispy onions and chilli powder).
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