Vineyard Stays
As the crop begins to ripen and harvest season approaches, head to the countryside for a break at a vineyard hotel, suggests Alicia Miller.
Stoller Vineyards Oregon, USA
Oregon is one of America’s most exciting wine regions at the moment – its pinot noirs, grown on brick-red jory soils, are capturing international attention – so there’s hardly a better time for a visit. Framed by the nearby Rockies, only an hour and a half from the Pacific coast, the family-owned Stoller Vineyards is one of the top local vineyard hotels; not only does it have 80 hectares of its own pinot noir and chardonnay, but it is also in a top spot in Willamette Valley from which you can strike out to some of the other 350-odd wineries in the state. But even if you don’t plan on budging from Stoller, it has plenty to recommend it: there are three pretty cottages to rent, all cosied in among the rows of perfectly manicured vines, in which you can happily while away late-summer days. Sleeping between four and eight people, two of the clapboard rentals boast superb vine views, one with a deck. All have kitchens (and one has a barbecue), so you can take advantage of the nearby farmers’ markets hawking Oregon produce. Should Oregon’s maritime influences kick in (read: it often rains here), the friendly staff are quick to point you towards alternative activities, such as antique-hunting in Lafayette, but sunny days seem made for sipping Stoller’s SV estate pinot while lounging in deep Muskoka chairs. Regular events, like movie nights or cycling days, will also keep you busy.
Travel Details
Cottages from £190 per night, or £1,090 per week. 00 1 503 864 3404, stollervineyards.com
The Carnerosinn California, USA
Tucked between the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, the Carneros wine region is California’s answer to Champagne, with some big names in bubbly (Taittinger included) owning wineries. So, it’s to be expected that the local accommodation should be suitably comfortable, and, situated along a stretch of vineyards, dusty barns and silos, The Carneros Inn is just that. More of a vinous village than hotel, this places gives new meaning to the phrase ‘wine resort’. Owned by Plumpjack, whose oaky cabernet is vinified only 30 minutes away in Napa, aside from 85 individual cottages and 10 suites, all surrounded by 27 acres of vines and apple orchards, Carneros even has its own ‘town square’, with market, restaurants and spa. You can have an all-American start to your day at the Boon Fly Café, sipping bacon bloody Marys and nibbling fried chicken with honey-malt waffles. Or have lunch at Hilltop, which overlooks the vine-covered landscape and uses produce grown within 150 miles. Kicking around the pools or puttering around the bocce-ball courts is part of the experience, but you may find it difficult to peel yourself away from your room. Privacy is paramount here – all units come with landscaped courtyards and teak patio furniture, while some feature individual soaking tubs, outdoor showers, or wood-burning fireplaces to cuddle around on cooler nights.
Travel Details
42-square-metre cottages sleeping two from £254 per night. 00 1 707 299 4900, thecarnerosinn.com
L'and Alentejo, Portugal
Even before the paint was fully dry, L’and started winning awards for best new hotel of the year – and no wonder, as this recently opened wine resort in the heart of the sun-baked Evora region is pretty stylish. Built with the landscape in mind, its Brazilian architect, Marcio Kogan, has gone all out with the natural look: stones, slates and woods complement a palate of earthy tones; lines are organic, incorporating Roman and Arabic influences in a nod to the region’s history. There are 22 suites, some with private gardens and plunge pools, all centred around a vineyard ‘garden’ that contributes to the estate’s full-bodied, concentrated red wine. Made in small quantities with local varieties such as aragonez, the moreish tipple shows why Alentejo is Portugal’s fastest-growing wine region. Should you be up to the hefty price tag, you can create your own bespoke wine blend. If not, you can still tour the vineyards and in-house winery with the oenologists. Of course, there’s plenty more to do, such as unwinding in the Caudalie Vinothérapie spa, which uses grape products in its treatments, taking a hammam, or picnicking near the lake by which the property is situated. Tempting as it may be to lounge, the surrounding countryside has much to offer, too – drive past undulating wheat plains, hills covered in cork oaks (many of the world’s wine corks are produced here), olive groves, and, as you might expect, vineyards heavy with fruit. You can visit any number of wineries around Evora, but return for dinner to L’and’s restaurant, which serves dishes such as codfish salad with migas (bread pancake) or Portuguese octopus rice with clams. If you’ve over-indulged, you can always sleep it off under the stars: ten private suites have retractable roofs.
Travel Details
One-bedroom suites from £136; Sky View suites from £160. 00 351 266 242 400, landvineyards.com
Palas Cerequio Barolo, Italy
A Barolo ‘bank’ is simply one feature of this newly opened 18thcentury village-cum-hotel in Piedmonte, so there’s no question that they take their wine seriously. You might not be able to taste all 6,000 bank bottles collected by local winemaker Michele Chiarlo, who owns the property, but between daily vertical Barolo tastings and visits to nearby properties producing this ‘king of wines’, you’ll hardly go thirsty. Rehauled interiors tastefully blend historical elegance with a modern look; four suites are done up in a sort of funky, updated take on Baroque, while five others are modern and minimalist, furbished with natural materials. All are spacious; some have private spas among their souped-up offerings. Within a 30km radius, there are 18 Michelin-starred restaurants, which is hardly surprising as you’re in white-truffle country, but this being Italy, there are plenty of good casual options, too. In fact, the most rewarding thing is just soaking up the laid-back vibe; taking a walk through early-morning mists that cling to the nebbiolo vineyards in autumn, or sipping on Barolo Chinato (a local digestif of wine, bark and mixed herbs and spices), while watching the sun slink belong the horizon.
Travel Details
Junior suites from £136 per night for two, with breakfast included. 00 39 0173 50657, palascerequio.com
The Three Choirs Gloucestershire, England
Ten years ago, a stay on a vineyard among the leafy landscapes of Gloucestershire wouldn’t have been high on many peoples’ wish lists, but then again, ten years ago, English wine hardly had the reputation it does now. With quality and availability of wines on the up, there’s no better time to usher in the era of the Great British vineyard stay – and The Three Choirs, which has an 11-room hotel with views over its vineyards, is the perfect place to start. Winning awards for its still-blended white whites, which are made from cool-climate varieties such as seyval blanc and reichensteiner, the 30-hectare property, which has a restaurant and tasting rooms, is located outside Newent. Double rooms are comfortable, but when the sun’s out, spend time on the patio, taking tea or reading a book with a glass of their sparkling in hand. Lodge rooms have a veranda on two sides, right among the vines, and the friendly staff will even deliver all the trappings for a barbecue. Or, after a day exploring the nearby Forest of Dean, hit the restaurant for a rump of lamb with potatoes and pea purée, followed by a Gloucestershire lardy cake – something you’ll not find on a vineyard stay anywhere but in good ol’ Blighty.
Travel Details
Rooms from £135, with breakfast included. 01531 890223, threechoirsvineyards.co.uk
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